Buzz
Since January of this year, 'ancient grains' have firmly entered the mainstream, even receiving their own Cheerios variant. Grains such as quinoa, spelt, and teff are increasingly appearing in products, often with the suggestion that they are healthier alternatives to traditional wheat or corn.
The promotion of ancient grains is a masterclass in subtle messaging: while labels don’t explicitly state these products are healthier, they heavily imply it. Like other buzzworthy terms, there’s a kernel of truth behind the hype. Ancient grains are praised for their fiber, protein, and whole-grain status. While these claims are accurate, they are no more applicable to ancient grains than to modern grains. Packaging often features beige boxes with green accents, which has become a visual cue for 'healthy, natural, and likely organic.'
However, none of these factors make ancient grains inherently healthier than the wheat, corn, or rice they replace. For instance, Ancient Grains Cheerios, when compared to the original oat-based version, contain the same amount of protein (3 grams per serving) but less fiber (2 grams instead of 3). Additionally, they are 'lightly sweetened' with 5 grams of sugar, compared to just 1 gram in the original. Nutritionally, regular Cheerios are the better choice.
Ancient grains are undeniably tasty and nutritious. I personally love farro salad and wouldn’t consider Ethiopian cuisine complete without its teff-based flatbread. However, it’s important to see through the marketing tactics: an exotic name, beige packaging, and a higher price tag don’t automatically make a product healthier.
Discover the World of Ancient Grains
The term 'ancient' grains refers to their minimal selective breeding compared to modern staple crops. For example, a grain of teff today closely resembles its wild ancestors, unlike modern wheat, which has significantly diverged from its predecessors like einkorn and emmer.
Ancient grains are less common and thus carry an exotic appeal. While corn, rice, and wheat dominate global grain production, marketing slogans like 'Contains corn!' lack the same allure in today’s market.
Some ancient grains are wheat varieties, classifying them as 'cereal grains', much like their mainstream counterparts. (Rice and corn also fall into this category.) Others, such as quinoa, are pseudocereals—they resemble and taste like cereal grains but aren’t part of the grass family. This distinction is often highlighted in articles about quinoa and similar grains. For those fascinated by such details, it’s worth noting that quinoa and wheat are both botanically classified as fruits, just like tomatoes.
Below are some of the fruits widely recognized as 'ancient grains'
Amaranth: Cultivated approximately 8,000 years ago by the Aztecs.
Farro (also known as emmer): A precursor to modern wheat, domesticated in the Fertile Crescent around the same time. The term Farro specifically refers to the variety grown in Italy.
Freekeh: Roasted green wheat, often grouped with ancient grains in lists like these, though it’s essentially the same species as modern wheat.
Kamut: A trademarked type of khorasan wheat, closely related to modern wheat.
Millet: First domesticated in China, now widely cultivated in India and several African nations, including Nigeria.
Quinoa: Originating in South America at least 3,000 years ago, its popularity in the US has led to significant economic shifts for Bolivian farmers (with mixed outcomes).
Spelt: Another wheat relative from the Fertile Crescent, cultivated in Europe during medieval times.
Teff: A grass with tiny seeds, domesticated and still grown in Ethiopia, where it’s used to make injera, a bread familiar to anyone who has visited an Ethiopian restaurant.
Nutritionally, these grains are comparable to wheat. For instance, 100 grams of uncooked grain contains between 11 grams (millet) and 15 grams (Kamut) of protein, while modern wheat has 13 grams. Quinoa’s amino acid profile makes it a 'high-quality' protein, but this doesn’t mean it’s protein-rich. It surpasses rice but matches wheat in protein content.
While each grain has unique nutritional traits—teff, for example, is rich in calcium—none are significantly superior to wheat. They are simply different. These grains are more alike than not, with variations in cost and accessibility outweighing nutritional differences. Their primary marketing appeal may stem from the fact that they are not wheat.
What’s the Issue With Wheat?
In certain circles, wheat is viewed unfavorably. Mark Sisson claims that modern wheat contains less selenium than ancient grains and has higher levels of a potentially harmful gluten component. Dr. William Davis, author of Wheat Belly, labels modern wheat a 'perfect, chronic poison' and attributes the problem to a gluten element called gliadin.
However, these claims don’t hold up under closer examination. Selenium deficiency is extremely rare, so whether you consume wheat or not, it’s unlikely to be an issue. Modern wheat hasn’t seen a significant rise in gluten content, and Dr. Davis’s more extreme assertions (such as gliadin activating opioid receptors) lack credibility.
Steering clear of wheat is advisable if you have celiac disease or if gluten-containing foods seem to disagree with you. While non-celiac gluten sensitivity remains a debated topic, the focus is on its cause—whether it’s gluten or FODMAPs. The symptoms are genuine, and it’s perfectly reasonable to avoid wheat if it improves how you feel.
Farro, Kamut, and spelt are closely related to wheat and contain gluten. (Other ancient grains, such as quinoa, do not.) If you’re avoiding wheat due to its gluten content, be sure to exclude these grains as well.
A Unique Example of the Health Halo Effect
Food manufacturers and marketers often highlight the healthier aspects of their products, aiming to create a 'health halo' that overshadows less favorable qualities. The promotion of ancient grains is unique because it implies health benefits without making explicit claims.
Consider Cheerios + Ancient Grains. General Mills introduced the product in a press release with a single sentence: 'Cheerios is the first to bring ancient grains to the mainstream cereal aisle.' Their marketing manager shared the cereal’s backstory with the New Yorker:
At General Mills, research and taste tests led by [marketing manager] Cunningham revealed that consumers were drawn to the idea of ancient grains and willing to pay more for products featuring them. Although many couldn’t precisely define ancient grains, Cunningham noted they linked them to 'simplicity' and 'health.' … He clarified that the packaging doesn’t claim the cereal is 'healthier than any other cereal in the world,' nor has General Mills made such statements to the media.
The company aimed to leverage the ancient-grains trend
while ensuring the cereal tasted great—hence the addition of sugar.
Similarly, Kellogg’s presents their Origins line (featuring cereals, granola, and muesli with ancient grains) using purely emotional language:
Kellogg’s Origins™ was born from a simple goal: to craft wholesome, satisfying food that truly nourishes. Food that’s both nutritious and flavorful. Real food, deliciously simple.
This description could fit nearly any food product. It’s unlikely they believe their other offerings, such as Corn Flakes, are artificial, bland, unsatisfying, or lacking in nourishment.
The allure of ancient grains extends beyond a handful of cereal brands. A trend report by market research firm Packaged Facts highlights that quinoa sales surged by 35% as of 2014 (“quinoa fatigue hasn’t kicked in,” they note), while Kamut sales skyrocketed by 686%. Spelt, freekeh, and amaranth also saw notable growth. The report attributes this to four key factors:
Expanding opportunities in breakfast and snack markets,
Their reputation as a solid source of plant-based protein,
The perception of cleaner, shorter, and simpler ingredient lists,
And crucially, their alignment with whole grain and gluten-free trends.
If you disregard the gluten and protein claims, which aren’t exclusive to ancient grains, the trend boils down to a hollow health halo: ancient grains create the illusion of simpler ingredient labels without offering any unique nutritional benefits.
While ancient grains aren’t inherently superior to grains like wheat, they remain nutritious. They are usually consumed with their bran and germ intact, making them whole grains. Whole grains are rich in fiber, vitamins, and minerals, making them worth looking for on labels. The Whole Grains Council, a nonprofit advocacy group, supports ancient grains but emphasizes that affordable options like oatmeal and whole wheat bread provide the same whole grain benefits.
Image courtesy of Slowfoodlife.
