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Photo Credit: Sofia Polukhina/Getty ImagesWhether you've dyed your hair at the salon or taken on a DIY approach, you're probably familiar with the distinctions between semi-permanent and demi-permanent hair colors. But what sets them apart? Hair colors are typically grouped into three categories: semi-permanent, demi-permanent, and permanent. While permanent colors are designed for long-lasting results, both semi- and demi-permanent options are made to last for an extended period, though not as long as permanent colors. In this article, leading hair colorists break down the key differences between semi- and demi-permanent hair dye, and help you decide which one is best suited for you.
What Does Permanent Hair Color Mean?
Permanent hair dye is a long-lasting color solution that doesn't wash out, but instead grows out over time. This is because permanent color works by opening the hair's cuticle, the outermost layer.
Permanent color contains ammonia, which raises the pH of the hair, causing the cuticle to lift. Developer, a liquid oxidizing agent with hydrogen peroxide, helps push the color deep into the cuticle to reach the cortex, the innermost layer of the hair, explains Kristen Fleming, a Chicago-based hair colorist.
What Is Semi-Permanent Hair Color?
Semi-permanent hair color is a type of dye that coats the surface of the hair, but doesn’t penetrate deeply. Unlike permanent color, semi-permanent dye doesn't contain ammonia, and it’s not mixed with a developer—both of which are responsible for opening the hair cuticle. Due to this, semi-permanent color cannot lighten hair. Instead, it can temporarily tone, enhance natural shades, or darken hair.
Semi-permanent hair dye fades within four to twelve washes. This variation depends on factors like hair porosity and the kind of shampoo you use. For instance, hair with higher porosity absorbs color quickly but also loses it faster. Additionally, sulfate-based shampoos can accelerate color fading.
Is Semi-Permanent Hair Color Damaging?
Semi-permanent hair dye is generally considered non-damaging since it doesn't alter the internal structure or health of the hair. Because it’s free of harsh chemicals like ammonia and peroxide, and doesn't require a developer (thus no hydrogen peroxide), it is safe for regular use. These factors make semi-permanent color one of the gentlest hair coloring options available.
However, because semi-permanent hair color fades more quickly, it can start to look uneven, lackluster, or dry over time. Additionally, frequent use of any type of hair color can lead to dryness, especially if the hair isn't regularly conditioned after coloring.
What Is Demi-Permanent Hair Color?
Demi-permanent color is a hair dye that offers results similar to permanent color, but without the full commitment. It typically lasts up to 24 shampoos as it penetrates deep into the hair, according to Fleming.
Demi-permanent color penetrates deeper into the hair cuticle because it’s mixed with a developer, which helps open the cuticle, explains Nicole Gache, head colorist at Valery Joseph Salon. This type of dye also often contains an alkali ingredient to assist in opening the cuticle. However, it will not lighten your hair; it simply deposits color, adds Fleming.
Is Demi-Permanent Hair Color Damaging?
Demi-permanent hair color is typically less damaging than permanent hair color since it lacks ammonia and uses a milder developer. However, it’s more damaging than semi-permanent color because it opens the hair cuticle to allow the color to penetrate. This process can lead to dryness and gradual weakening of the hair, particularly if you use demi-permanent color frequently.
To minimize any potential damage from demi-permanent hair color, regular conditioning is key. Deep conditioning treatments or nourishing masks can help restore moisture, fortify the hair, and maintain its elasticity. Additionally, using shampoos and hair products designed for color-treated hair can improve the resilience of your strands and help your color last longer.
How to Choose Between Semi-Permanent or Demi-Permanent Color
There are many reasons to choose temporary hair color over permanent, but how do you determine how temporary you want it to be? Here's a quick comparison to help guide your decision between semi-permanent and demi-permanent hair color.
| Semi- vs. Demi-Permanent Hair Color | |
|---|---|
| Semi-Permanent | Demi-Permanent |
| Lasts 4-12 washes | Lasts 24 washes |
| Ammonia-free | Ammonia-free |
| Peroxide-free | Contains some peroxide |
| No need for a developer | Requires a developer |
| Coats the hair shaft | Slightly penetrates the hair cuticle |
| Not damaging | Less damaging than permanent color but not damage-free |
| Minimally blends grays | Offers blended gray coverage |
| Cannot lighten hair | Cannot lighten hair |
| Safe for all hair types | Safe for most hair types (except very porous or damaged hair) |
| Low commitment | Medium commitment |
Who Should Consider Using Semi-Permanent Hair Color?
If you're looking to experiment with a color without a long-term commitment, semi-permanent is the way to go since it fades out quickly. To maintain your vibrant hue, limit how often you wash your hair and use only color-safe shampoos and conditioners to prolong the fresh look.
Semi-permanent hair color is also a great option if you want to enhance your highlights, says Gache. However, regular upkeep is necessary to preserve the tone. The good news is that it’s easier to apply at home because there's no need to mix it with a developer, making maintenance more achievable.
Who Should Consider Using Demi-Permanent Hair Color?
Like semi-permanent color, demi-permanent dye is perfect for those who want to try out a new shade without fully committing. It lasts longer than semi-permanent color, giving you more time to adjust to your new look before it fades, but it still washes out eventually. Demi-permanent hair color requires upkeep, but the regrowth is less noticeable than with permanent color, meaning you won’t need root touch-ups since there’s no stark line from new growth.
Demi-permanent hair color is an excellent choice for anyone looking to enhance their natural color or reduce brassy tones without the harsh chemicals found in permanent dyes. It’s also a great option if you have some gray you’d like to blend in with the rest of your hair. "Demi-permanent can cover some gray but will keep your color close to your natural tone," says Gache.
If you're trying to cover a significant amount of gray, permanent color (over either semi- or demi-permanent) is still the best choice, according to Fleming.
Frequently Asked Questions
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How can I make demi-permanent color fade faster?
If you're not happy with your demi-permanent color, it will typically wash out after about 24 shampoos. To make it fade faster, you can use clarifying shampoos, color removers, or color correctors.
Washing with warm water can help it fade quicker as it opens the hair cuticle, allowing the color molecules to escape more easily. However, hot water can strip the hair’s natural oils, making it more porous and more prone to fading, which isn’t ideal for hair health.
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Are semi- and demi-permanent colors safe for all hair types?
Semi-permanent color is typically safe for all hair types, including chemically treated and textured hair. Demi-permanent color is also generally safe for most hair types, but because it opens the hair cuticle to deposit color, it may not be the best choice for hair that’s already very porous, dry, or damaged. Always do a patch test before using any hair color to ensure it won't cause adverse reactions.
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How long should I wait between color applications?
It’s generally recommended to wait four to six weeks between color treatments for both semi-permanent and demi-permanent dyes. This helps prevent over-processing, which can lead to dryness and damage. If you notice any dryness or breakage, it’s wise to wait longer before reapplying color to allow your hair to recover.
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Can I use Kool-Aid as a semi-permanent color?
Despite popular belief, Kool-Aid does not function as a semi-permanent hair dye. The color from the juice doesn’t actually bond to the hair shaft, so while it may temporarily tint light hair red or blue, the color will wash out immediately with water.
