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A woman with stunning wavy hair.
Photo: People Images/Getty ImagesIf your hair remains dry despite using conditioners and oils, low porosity hair could be the culprit. According to Danielle Keasling, a celebrity hairstylist, Biolage Creative Director, and Ulta Beauty Pro Team member, hair porosity determines how effectively your hair absorbs and retains moisture. "Understanding your hair's porosity level can significantly transform your hair care regimen," she adds.
Joshua Zeichner, M.D., an associate professor of dermatology and director of cosmetic and clinical research at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City, explains that low porosity hair has a tightly bound cuticle layer, which prevents water and hair products from penetrating easily. "The tight cuticle makes it challenging to hydrate and treat low porosity hair effectively," Dr. Zeichner notes.
With the right care, you can achieve softer and more hydrated strands, even with low porosity hair.
What Are the Key Traits of Low Porosity Hair?
David Harvey, M.D., FAAD, FACMS, from Anne Arundel Dermatology in Georgia, explains that individuals with low porosity hair often experience longer drying times and difficulty getting their hair wet in the shower. "It also tends to stiffen when exposed to protein treatments," he notes. Unlike high porosity hair, which absorbs moisture quickly, low porosity hair is generally less prone to brittleness.
Keasling points out that low porosity hair often feels smooth due to its tightly sealed cuticle layers. "While it’s less prone to frizz compared to high porosity hair, frizz can occur when moisture absorption is inadequate," she explains. Additionally, low porosity hair is susceptible to product buildup, as products often remain on the surface rather than penetrating the hair shaft. Dry ends are also a common issue, she adds.
How to Determine Your Hair Porosity
Dr. Harvey suggests a straightforward method to test hair porosity. Simply place a few strands of hair in a glass of water and observe whether they sink or float. "If the hair floats for a while before sinking, it indicates low porosity," he explains. "On the other hand, if the strands sink immediately, it suggests high porosity hair."
Tips for Maintaining Low Porosity Hair
Limit Excessive Brushing
Dr. Harvey notes that frequent brushing, combined with repeated wetting and drying, can lead to increased dryness in your hair.
Avoid Specific Ingredients
Dr. Harvey advises checking hair care product labels to avoid proteins or keratin, as these tend to accumulate on the surface of low-porosity hair, leaving it looking flat and lifeless. Candace Spann, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist in Las Vegas, adds that proteins can also contribute to product buildup.
...And Opt for the Right Ingredients
"The key isn’t just adding more moisture to low porosity hair but using products that enhance moisture absorption," Keasling explains. She suggests ingredients like glycerin, honey, and aloe vera, which attract moisture without making hair feel heavy.
Dr. Zeichner recommends hairstyling products with humectants such as hyaluronic acid, which draw hydration into the hair like a sponge. He also mentions that lightweight oils, such as coconut oil, can effectively hydrate and soften low porosity hair.
Incorporate Heat
"For low porosity hair, using shampoos and conditioners with hot water in the shower can help open the hair cuticles," suggests Dr. Zeichner. Keasling also recommends deep conditioning treatments under a hooded dryer at a salon or using a hot steam towel for better results.
Master the Art of Layering
Keasling advises applying hair products while your hair is still damp to lock in hydration. Begin with lightweight, water-based formulas, then follow up with oils or creams to seal in moisture and complete your styling routine.
