The Advantages of Polyglutamic Acid—and Its Comparison to Hyaluronic Acid

If you're unfamiliar with the benefits of polyglutamic acid, allow us to introduce you to this remarkable skincare ingredient. While hyaluronic acid is celebrated for its deep hydration properties, working at a cellular level to restore moisture, and remains a favorite in serums, polyglutamic acid is emerging as a powerful moisturizing alternative worth exploring.

Naturally present in our bodies, this acid smooths the skin, addresses wrinkles and uneven tones, and boasts hydration levels four times greater than hyaluronic acid—making it ideal for dry skin. Below, skincare experts delve into the benefits of polyglutamic acid and recommend top products to try.

What Is Polyglutamic Acid?

This highly scientific ingredient may sound intricate (and it is), but experts emphasize that its benefits—yielding soft, smooth skin—are simple to understand. “Polyglutamic acid is an amino acid biopolymer derived from natto, a viscous Japanese delicacy crafted from fermented soybeans,” explains Cara Bondi of Sol de Janeiro. 

“In skincare, polyglutamic acid functions as a humectant, enhancing hydration and fortifying the skin’s natural barrier,” states dermatologist Kim Nichols, MD. Beyond long-lasting hydration, it also diminishes the look of wrinkles, boosts moisture retention, refines skin texture, and balances skin tone.

Polyglutamic Acid vs. Hyaluronic Acid

Though both are potent hydrators, polyglutamic acid outperforms hyaluronic acid with superior efficacy and added moisturizing advantages. Bondi notes, “Depending on the source, polyglutamic acid can retain 4,000-5,000 times its weight in water, whereas hyaluronic acid typically holds 1,000 times its weight.”

Bondi further explains that polyglutamic acid enhances the skin’s natural ability to retain moisture by boosting the “natural moisturizing factor,” a group of molecules that naturally occur in the skin to help maintain and increase hydration levels.

However, despite being a more potent ingredient, polyglutamic acid comes at a higher cost due to its challenging sourcing process. (This is partly why the ingredient isn’t as widely discussed.) Products like serums and moisturizers featuring polyglutamic acid tend to be more expensive than those containing hyaluronic acid.

What Skin Type Benefits From Polyglutamic Acid?

Polyglutamic acid is suitable for all skin types, as everyone can enjoy the benefits of added hydration and a smoother complexion. However, it is particularly beneficial for those dealing with dry skin. “As a humectant, a polyglutamic acid serum locks in moisture, leaving your skin feeling firm and hydrated,” notes Nichols.

Moreover, polyglutamic acid is ideal for oily skin due to its lightweight texture, preventing any greasy residue—a common concern for acne-prone individuals. Those with aging or mature skin can also reap the rewards of its hydrating properties, which help improve skin tone and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.

Does Polyglutamic Acid Pair Well with Other Ingredients?

You don’t need to avoid combining exfoliants or retinol products with polyglutamic acid. “Polyglutamic acid is compatible with nearly all ingredients...though it’s always wise to seek advice from your board-certified dermatologist for personalized recommendations,” advises Nichols. Considering your skin’s unique sensitivity, let’s delve into how polyglutamic acid can be used alongside hyaluronic acid and vitamin C.

Polyglutamic Acid and Hyaluronic Acid

These two ingredients complement each other perfectly and can become a staple in your skincare regimen. “For those battling dry or uneven skin, the combination of polyglutamic acid and hyaluronic acid can be transformative. When paired, these active ingredients double the hydration, working synergistically to deeply penetrate and lock in moisture,” says Nichols.

Polyglutamic Acid and Vitamin C

In the same way, polyglutamic acid can be paired with vitamin C. Both ingredients are effective in hydrating the skin, with vitamin C offering additional protection against damaging UV rays. Their shared benefits allow them to work harmoniously without causing any adverse effects on your skin.

How Should You Apply Polyglutamic Acid?

Polyglutamic acid is safe for daily use and can even be applied twice a day if desired. Incorporating it into your morning skincare routine (or evening routine) is straightforward and similar to using other skincare products.

1. Start by cleansing your face thoroughly before applying any products.
2. Gently massage a small amount of polyglutamic acid serum onto your face and neck, followed by your preferred face moisturizer.
3. In the morning, finish with broad-spectrum sunscreen (this step can be skipped at night).

When combining polyglutamic acid with other ingredients like vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, retinol, or other treatments, apply each product before your moisturizer and SPF. As a general rule, layer products from the thinnest consistency to the thickest, allowing a few minutes between applications to ensure proper absorption.

Best Serums with Polyglutamic Acid

Ready to experience the hydrating benefits? Explore our curated selection of expert-recommended products featuring polyglutamic acid.

1. FACEGYM Hydro-Bound Daily Serum

This highly sought-after serum combines hyaluronic acid, polyglutamic acid, and vitamin B3 niacinamide to deliver deep hydration and enhance skin elasticity.

2. Typology Plumping Polyglutamic Acid Face Serum

Typology’s vegan-friendly plumping serum is perfect for sensitive skin types. Alongside polyglutamic acid, it features red seaweed extract to strengthen the skin’s natural barrier.

3. The INKEY List Polyglutamic Acid Hydrating Serum

Ideal for those seeking affordable skincare products, this cost-effective polyglutamic acid serum is also cruelty-free. Its lightweight texture suits most skin types and helps reduce signs of premature skin aging.

4. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Serum Crystal Elixir

While it’s a bit of an investment, this hydrating serum combines three potent ingredients: polyglutamic acid, vitamin C, and niacinamide. Together, they work to enhance skin texture and reduce hyperpigmentation.

5. Futurewise Slug Boost Hydrating Mist

For an instant hydration pick-me-up, this vegan, cruelty-free, and non-comedogenic mist is free from fragrances and parabens. It’s an excellent choice as the initial step in your skincare regimen.