Buzz
In advertising, certain practices are widely discouraged, such as associating your clothing brand with divisive figures like Adolf Hitler. Nazi symbols are generally a deterrent for potential customers.
The only exception? Members Only.
Renowned for its distinctive fabrics, ribbed hems, and shoulder epaulettes, Members Only became a defining name in 1980s men’s fashion. Its success was so immense that the brand shifted from celebrity endorsements to funding anti-drug and pro-voting initiatives. Rather than hiring models, the company invested in public service campaigns highlighting issues like drug-affected newborns and violence targeting law enforcement. In 1988, they even used footage of Hitler to motivate voters to engage with the nation’s political landscape.
While some markets rejected the ads, Members Only and its two founders had already established a $100 million fashion empire by challenging norms and embracing unconventional strategies.
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Following his service in the Marines, Herb Goldsmith joined his father’s outerwear business, Chief Apparel, in the late 1940s. Handling orders and filling inventory with moth-repellent camphor balls, Goldsmith honed his understanding of men’s fashion. (His expertise was tactile rather than visual, as he was color blind.)
While his father preferred to keep Chief Apparel regional, Goldsmith envisioned broader opportunities. He traveled extensively, convincing buyers to stock their sports jackets and even secured actor Tony Curtis as a brand ambassador. In 1958, after discovering Velcro, he quickly negotiated its use in children’s coats, recognizing that zippers were often too challenging for young kids to manage.
Not every venture succeeded—Velcro didn’t become a sensation, and he once missed a chance to collaborate with two little-known designers, Dolce and Gabbana—but Goldsmith’s expertise in the apparel industry was undeniable.
After his father passed away, Goldsmith teamed up with Ed Wachtel to acquire the import company Europe Craft in 1961. They sourced innovative designs from abroad, creating bolder menswear than what American brands offered. Their Convoy Coat was a hit, and they later collaborated with TV star Telly Savalas to design and promote a suit collection. Despite Savalas’s sharp style, his fans showed little interest in formal attire, leading Europe Craft to discontinue the line within a year.
By the late 1970s, Goldsmith and Wachtel received feedback from retailers that younger customers preferred slimmer-fitting jackets. The boxy, broad-shouldered suits favored by older generations were losing appeal among the youth.
During a trip to Munich, Goldsmith came across a jacket featuring a knitted hem and epaulettes—shoulder straps reminiscent of military uniforms. Back in New York, he found a lightweight, glossy chintz fabric available in 40 vibrant colors. At a time when outerwear was dominated by subdued tones, the idea of introducing jackets in bold hues like green or bright white was unconventional—and exactly what Goldsmith aimed for.
Combining the fabric and design with his own additions, such as a collar strap, Goldsmith sought a unique brand identity. Inspiration struck at a Long Island country club, where he noticed a sign reading 'Members Only.'
Later, he observed that Diners Club cards featured a key in their logo. For Members Only, he incorporated a keyhole, symbolizing exclusivity and access for those with the discerning taste to own one.
ChronicNonsense
Following several iterations, the final version of the Members Only jacket, priced at $55 retail, launched in 1980. It achieved moderate success. Retailers struggled to showcase the full range of colors Goldsmith offered, prompting him to advocate for replacing the standard “pipe rack” displays used for most jackets. Instead, Members Only jackets were presented on tiered racks, allowing customers to fully appreciate the design.
Inspired by the freebies often included with cosmetics, Goldsmith introduced complementary Members Only products like tote bags and watches as purchase incentives. Soon, the jackets became a staple for entertainment lawyers traveling cross-country, paired with Izod golf shirts and Levi’s jeans. The trend spread through influential circles, and before long, Members Only jackets began appearing on movie and TV stars without any formal endorsements.
Goldsmith recognized the need for a strategic advertising campaign. While considering potential celebrity endorsers, his daughter recommended Anthony Geary, a prominent actor on ABC’s General Hospital. Though Geary didn’t resonate with most men, Goldsmith understood that women often influenced clothing purchases during shopping trips.
In 1982, Members Only signed Geary as their spokesperson. In TV ads, he famously declared, “When you put it on … something happens.”
That “something” translated into $100 million in sales by 1984. During public appearances, Geary was surrounded by crowds of up to 5000 fans, requiring police barricades for safety. Members Only had risen to the top of the outerwear market, with Goldsmith expanding the line to include women’s sizes, additional colors, and winter editions featuring quilted linings. Roughly 15 million men were seen wearing the jackets.
The brand’s overwhelming success gave Goldsmith the freedom to take risks. For the 1986 ad campaign, he decided to make one of the boldest moves yet.
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The media gathered to preview the new ad campaign for the nation’s most popular outerwear brand was left puzzled. Athletes and musicians—including Nets star Buck Williams—delivered passionate speeches about the dangers of drug addiction. One ad showed a police shield pierced with bullets, symbolizing the collateral damage of the drug war. These spots functioned as public service announcements, with a subtle “brought to you by Members Only” tagline appearing only at the conclusion.
Goldsmith dedicated his entire $6 million advertising budget to this initiative, inspired by President Ronald Reagan’s aggressive anti-drug campaign. The Members Only ads aired across radio, TV, and print, downplaying the brand to emphasize a powerful anti-drug message.
"We've successfully built our brand recognition,'' Wachtel explained to The New York Times in 1986. ''Now, we aim to leverage our visibility to prevent first-time drug use, which is our ultimate objective.''
While some in the industry questioned their strategy, sales surged by 15 percent in 1987, with certain stores reporting an 82 percent increase. Local markets even offered free airtime to support the campaign. Goldsmith achieved a harmonious blend of social impact and business growth, earning a letter of gratitude from First Lady Nancy Reagan.
The campaign's drawback was its incompatibility with traditional celebrity endorsements. In 1988, Goldsmith and his ad agency, Korey Kay, shifted focus to voter registration. Their ads warned indifferent voters that political engagement prevents figures like Adolf Hitler and Joseph Stalin from gaining power, accompanied by footage of German concentration camps. Though controversial, the campaign maintained Members Only's market dominance, with over a quarter of outerwear sales bearing the brand's name.
After Wachtel retired in 1987, Goldsmith completed a five-year agreement with new owners Marcade in 1992. Retailers increasingly prioritized cost over fashion, sourcing inexpensive clothing from overseas. At one point, an excess of 90,000 jackets was traded for advertising and travel credits.
Members Only never recaptured its 1980s prestige, instead becoming a nostalgic, ironic symbol in pop culture. In the finale of The Sopranos, Tony Soprano’s fate was sealed by a man in a Members Only jacket. (The ambiguous ending contrasted with the brand’s slogan: Fans felt nothing happened.)
Today, Members Only continues as a lifestyle brand, blending its iconic original design with contemporary updates. While it may never reclaim the monumental success of the 1980s, for those who remember browsing the tiered racks back then, only the signature tablecloth fabrics and bold references like Joseph Stalin will suffice.
Additional Sources:Only the Best Will Do!
