The Modest Origins of Pumpkin Pie

There's something about pumpkin pie that makes the holidays in the United States feel cozy and festive. (And let's be real, how would Starbucks even survive without its pumpkin spice lattes?) But pause for a moment: Pumpkin pie is a pie. Filled with squash. Who came up with the idea of putting squash in a pie?

The journey of pumpkin pie's rise to fame is a fascinating tale that blends medieval traditions, indigenous African and American cuisine, and some of the most valuable goods exchanged along ancient trade routes connecting Asia and the Middle East.

The History of the Pie

Let’s start by discussing the pie, which was actually more commonly enjoyed during the Middle Ages in Europe than it is today in the U.S., as stated by Ken Albala, a history professor at the University of the Pacific in Stockton, California. Albala, who has written over 25 books on food and its history, including "Food in Early Modern Europe," notes that pies back then were filled with fruits, meats, fish, and vegetables.

In medieval times, pies looked quite different from today’s versions, and people didn’t eat the crusts. (Heartbreaking, right?) The crusts were made from thick, tasteless dough—nothing like the flaky, buttery varieties we’re familiar with today—and they were usually used only as serving containers. According to Albala, medieval pies were freeform, baked without a pie plate, and rose much higher than what we expect from pies now. ‘[People] poured hot gelatinous gravy into a hole at the top to seal in the air,’ Albala explains. ‘And often, though not always, [they] would break open the pie and scoop out the filling, discarding the crust.’

This practice came to an end around the 15th century, and people started keeping the crusts. When European settlers arrived in North America, eating the pie crust became a standard and essential part of life. With food being scarce, especially in the harsh winters, crusts became a great way to stretch limited resources and feed people. By the 17th century, the act of eating ‘a slice’ was the way to enjoy a pie.

Inside the Pumpkin Pie

When it comes to the filling: In Medieval Europe, pumpkins were not available. Instead, Europeans used gourd fillings, favoring varieties that had originated in Africa. Through the Columbian Exchange—the vast exchange of plants, food, animals, microbes, people, and culture initiated by European exploration of the Americas—Europeans were introduced to pumpkins. Although it took time for some foods from North, Central, and South America (like potatoes and tomatoes) to be accepted, pumpkins quickly gained popularity due to their resemblance to the gourds and superior flavor.

‘Pumpkin pie, as we know it, has deep medieval roots,’ Albala states. ‘Pumpkin spice is a quintessential medieval blend.’

And what about the spice combination we now associate with autumn, comfort, and longer lines at coffee shops? Back in the Middle Ages, it wasn’t just for squash pies. The same blend of spices was used in nearly everything. These spices weren’t only flavorful but also served as symbols of status, flaunted by the wealthy to display their affluence. Sugar was rare too, and if you could serve a feast featuring spices, sugar, and New World vegetables, you were truly living in luxury.

‘The cinnamon, clove, ginger, nutmeg combination was everywhere up until the 16th century,’ Albala notes. ‘By that time, sugar was often added to the mix as well. There were standard blends and 'poudre fort—spicier versions with pepper, sometimes grains of paradise. But what we now know as pumpkin spice appeared in most recipes until French haute cuisine in the 17th century, when they relegated it to the end of the meal, alongside sweets.’

Here’s an early recipe for pumpkin pie—called ‘pumpion pie’ back then—published in the British cookbook, The Accomplisht Cook, in 1685:

The Colonists Take on Pumpkin Pie

By the 18th century, the British had lost their fondness for pumpkin pie and began to associate pumpkins negatively with Native Americans. They grew to prefer pies made from apples, pears, and quinces, which they saw as more refined and sophisticated.

Around the same time, American colonists began creating their own version of pumpkin pie. Amelia Simmons' book, "American Cookery", is regarded by food historians as a "culinary Declaration of Independence" from England. It was the first cookbook written by an American, featuring ingredients native to America and published in America. Simmons provided the following recipe for pumpkin pie:

Simmons' recipe is very similar to the pumpkin pie we recognize today, with one distinction: her version called for a top crust. By the early 1800s, however, pumpkin pie evolved into a single-crust pie and became a staple in American cuisine, particularly during Thanksgiving celebrations.