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If you're looking to elevate your skincare routine beyond the basics of cleansing, moisturizing, and sun protection, exfoliation is a natural next step. Exfoliating serums and scrubs claim to combat acne, unclog pores, diminish fine lines, and enhance skin radiance. While some of these claims hold true, they don't tell the full story. Here's a scientifically grounded, medically supported exploration of exfoliation: its potential benefits, limitations, and affordable, effective products to consider.
Defining Exfoliation
To understand exfoliation, let's first examine the epidermis, the outermost layer of your skin. New skin cells form at the base of the epidermis, gradually rising to the surface as older cells are pushed upward. These older cells eventually die and flatten, forming the topmost layer known as the stratum corneum.
These dead cells are far from useless. They remain in place because they play a crucial role, acting as a protective barrier between your body and the external environment. The stratum corneum prevents your skin from becoming porous, retaining moisture and blocking harmful contaminants. Over time, as new cells rise and older ones die, the outermost layer of the stratum corneum naturally sheds away.
Below is a visual representation of the epidermal layers, with 'NMF' referring to natural moisturizing factors:
Exfoliation refers to the shedding of these dead skin cells. Healthy skin naturally exfoliates itself: Dr. Sandy Skotnicki, a member of the Canadian Dermatology Association and author of the upcoming book Beyond Soap, explained that our epidermis renews itself every 30 days. However, this process slows with age. The dullness and flakiness often linked to dry skin result from a disruption in the skin's natural exfoliation cycle. When excess stratum corneum accumulates, the cells form clumps, leading to visible flakes and scales.
Exfoliating products accelerate your skin's natural renewal process. This can be achieved through physical methods, such as scrubbing away the top layer of dead cells, or chemical methods, which weaken the bonds between dead cells, allowing them to shed more quickly. When done correctly, exfoliation delivers on many of its promises. As Dr. Skotnicki explained, 'Mechanical or chemical exfoliation can enhance your skin's brightness and overall appearance.'
The dullness and flakiness often linked to dry skin stem from a breakdown in the skin's natural exfoliation process.
Is Exfoliation Necessary?
Possibly. (To be clear, exfoliation isn't a necessity for health; it's about enhancing your skin's appearance.) If you're thinking about incorporating an exfoliating product into your skincare regimen, ensure you're already using a high-quality moisturizer.
Dr. Fayne Frey, the expert behind FryFace, a site dedicated to the science of skin, emphasized that moisturizer is, in fact, the most effective exfoliant. The cells in the stratum corneum are connected by chemical bonds known as desmosomes. These bonds are naturally dissolved by enzymes in your skin, which rely on water to function. 'Therefore,' Dr. Frey notes, 'the key to effective exfoliation is proper hydration.' If you consider the desired outcomes of exfoliation—softer, brighter, and smoother skin—these are also the hallmarks of well-moisturized skin.
If you're in your twenties, exfoliation might not be necessary at all. Your skin is still efficiently producing new cells regularly. If you're already using a moisturizer and feel your skin could still improve, Dr. Skotnicki recommends opting for a chemical exfoliant, such as glycolic acid.
However, if you're struggling with severe acne, skin conditions like eczema or rosacea, or more serious issues, all experts I consulted agreed: consult a dermatologist. While most chemical exfoliants are mild—classified as cosmetics rather than drugs—they can still irritate highly sensitive or damaged skin. Additionally, they aren't potent enough to address significant skin concerns.
What About Scrubs?
Physical exfoliants, like scrubs, are what many people are most familiar with, and there's a certain satisfaction in feeling the exfoliation process. Or at least believing you can feel it. However, physical exfoliants are generally not recommended for two primary reasons.
Firstly, many physical exfoliants in the US contain plastic microbeads, which are extremely harmful to the environment. Secondly, the goal of exfoliation is to gently loosen or dissolve the bonds between skin cells, which occurs on a microscopic level. Physical scrubs, however, can easily cause abrasions, leading to minor skin damage. Dr. Skotnicki emphasizes that scrubbing is never beneficial for facial skin and can be particularly harmful if you have acne or other inflammatory skin conditions.
The desire for the deep-cleansing sensation of a physical scrub is similar to believing you need to feel squeaky-clean—it’s excessive and rooted more in a psychological need for cleanliness than in actual effectiveness.
Understanding Chemical Exfoliants
Instead of relying on scrubs, explore chemical exfoliants, which are divided into two main types: alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). According to Dr. Annie Chiu, a Board-Certified Cosmetic and General Dermatologist, BHAs are ideal for those with oily or acne-prone skin due to their oil-soluble nature. Salicylic acid, the most common BHA, is found in many over-the-counter acne treatments, though for exfoliation, it’s applied to the entire face rather than as a spot treatment. AHAs, on the other hand, are better suited for dry skin as they function as humectants, attracting moisture into the skin from either the dermis or, in humid conditions, the air.
AHAs come in various forms, including lactic acid, glycolic acid, and mandelic acid. Dermatologists I consulted favored glycolic acid for its hydrating properties and proven effectiveness. There’s also some evidence that glycolic acid, by accelerating cell turnover, may stimulate deeper skin activity, potentially boosting collagen production and reducing wrinkle formation.
Despite these advantages, all the dermatologists I spoke with emphasized that chemical exfoliants should only be used once or twice a week. This advice often conflicts with product instructions and the common belief that more frequent use yields better results. Dr. Skotnicki notes, 'Most dermatologists find that patients tend to over-exfoliate, over-scrub, and over-cleanse. Your skin naturally handles these processes, so excessive intervention isn’t necessary.'
'Skin is an organ,' Dr. Frey emphasizes. 'While we often view it as a symbol of beauty, its primary role is protective.' Exfoliation involves removing the outermost layer of cells, revealing fresher, more radiant skin underneath. However, over-exfoliation can lead to redness, irritation, and increased vulnerability to pollutants and moisture loss. Remember, maintaining skin hydration is key to achieving a healthy, glowing appearance.
Shopping Tips
Dr. Skotnicki advises opting for products with minimal ingredients, a recommendation that aligns with the current trend in skincare. Brands like The Ordinary and Paula’s Choice have gained popularity for their straightforward, single-active-ingredient formulations. While some of this is marketing, leveraging scientific appeal as a proxy for quality, the simplicity is advantageous. It also enables brands to offer more affordable options. Since dermatological science is just the foundation, experimenting with products to see how they work for your skin is crucial. Affordable prices make this trial-and-error process more accessible.
The emphasis on single-ingredient skincare products is partly marketing, using scientific appeal as a substitute for quality.
Products with multiple active ingredients make it difficult to determine whether the benefits stem from exfoliation or other components. For instance, some products include polysaccharides, large sugar molecules that Dr. Skotnicki explains can attract moisture to the skin. This results in an immediate or overnight plumping effect, improving skin appearance and reducing the visibility of fine lines, though the effects are short-lived.
On the flip side, benefits are still benefits. The dermatologists I consulted emphasized the distinction between products that fundamentally alter your skin—requiring FDA classification as drugs—and those that enhance skin appearance. While the latter often provide only temporary improvements and don’t contribute to long-term skin health, these short-term results are frequently all that skincare enthusiasts seek, and that’s perfectly fine.
To begin with simple exfoliants, you don’t need to break the bank. The Ordinary offers affordable, straightforward options like their BHA serum and 7% glycolic acid toner. Another excellent choice is Pixi’s Glow Tonic, which contains 5% glycolic acid. If your skin tolerates menthol, the classic Stridex maximum-strength pads in the red box are another effective BHA option.
For stronger formulations, consider products with higher acid concentrations. These are often marketed as peels or masks and are designed to be rinsed off after a specific duration, typically 2-10 minutes. An example is this AHA/BHA combo product, which you apply for ten minutes. (Its red tint ensures you don’t confuse it with a leave-on serum—and adds a fun, slightly alarming twist for anyone who sees you mid-treatment.)
As with any skincare regimen, start gradually and increase usage as needed. Perform a patch test on your inner arm or behind your ear to check for allergic reactions. If you’re new to exfoliation, begin with once-a-week application and monitor your skin’s response. Over time, you can increase to 2-3 times a week for serums, while once a week is sufficient for at-home peels or masks. Remember, over-exfoliating isn’t beneficial—your skin needs some of its protective dead cell layer!
Chemical exfoliants increase your skin’s sensitivity to sunlight, so daily sunscreen use is essential. Opt for a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher. In fact, wearing sunscreen daily is a practice you should adopt regardless of exfoliation.
However, don’t expect miracles. Dr. Skotnicki explains, 'Aging is 60 percent determined by genetics. You can influence about 40 percent of the aging process, depending on factors like sun exposure and smoking.' She emphasizes that no product can halt or reverse aging. While plastic surgery can provide a more youthful appearance, skincare products can only slow the process.
Exfoliation plays a role within that 40 percent. While it won’t transform your skin (or your life) dramatically, it’s one of the few scientifically supported elements of a skincare routine. So feel free to indulge—gently and no more than once or twice a week.
Update [3/15/18]: A quote from Dr. Skotnicki was revised to accurately reflect the percentages that total 100%.
