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High heels are now a must-have in many women's wardrobes, yet they aren't the most practical choice. We stumble, slip, and twist our ankles on uneven ground, but still, we refuse to give them up in favor of more comfortable flats or sneakers. So, where did these impractical shoes originate?
As explored in a recent episode of BBC’s The Why Factor, the history of high heels leads to an unexpected origin: men. For centuries, high heels served as riding footwear, as explained by Elizabeth Semmelhack of the Bata Shoe Museum in Toronto. The heel helped riders maintain their position in the stirrups, improving their ability to shoot arrows—particularly important in Persia (modern-day Iran), where horsemanship was crucial to their fighting style.
17th century Persian shoes, crafted from horsehide and pressed mustard seeds. Image courtesy The Star/Bata Shoe Museum.
In 1599, a Persian shah sent a diplomatic envoy to Europe, sparking a fascination with Persian culture and fashion across Western Europe. Aristocrats became enamored with Persian high-heeled shoes—bold, masculine, and ideal for signaling status. When the lower classes adopted the style, the aristocracy responded by increasing the height of their heels, reinforcing the social hierarchy. Though impractical for the cobbled streets of 17th-century Europe, this was part of the allure: privileged men rarely walked, and extravagant accessories accentuated their lavish lifestyles.
Christian Louboutin wasn't the first to use red soles as a symbol of status: King Louis XIV of France preceded him by over three centuries. At just 5 feet 4 inches (1.63 meters), Louis XIV used heels—always in red, an expensive dye—to add height. In the 1670s, he passed a decree that restricted red heels to members of his court, ensuring only the most favored could wear the extravagant color.
A 1701 portrait of Louis XIV, wearing his iconic red heels. Image courtesy Wikimedia Commons.
So how did high heels become part of women’s fashion? Elizabeth Semmelhack explained to William Kremer of BBC News Magazine:
"In the 1630s, women began cutting their hair, adding epaulettes to their outfits, smoking pipes, and wearing hats with masculine styles. This is when women began adopting heels – to add a more masculine edge to their attire."
Over time, the unisex heel split into two distinct forms: a low, stacked heel for men and a slender one for women. As the Enlightenment era approached, men's fashion became more practical and modest. With social class distinctions diminishing, women—often perceived as frivolous, shallow, and overly emotional—took over the high heel and other extravagant, impractical trends. By 1740, men had completely abandoned high heels.
Originally designed as practical footwear for horseback riding, high heels transformed into stilettos and pumps—luxurious, albeit impractical, symbols of femininity and wealth. Fashion, however, is cyclical. One day, heels may regain their status as emblems of power, and perhaps men will once again claim the footwear they first created.
[via BBC News Magazine]
