The Timeless Simmer: Perpetual Stew, a Dish That Lasts for Years

In the kitchen of Chef David Santos' Portuguese-inspired restaurant, Louro, located in New York City's West Village, a rich stew of lobster shells, fish heads, and vegetable scraps has been gently simmering not just for hours, but for several months.

Created on Aug. 9, 2014, Stu, as the stew is lovingly nicknamed by Santos' team, started as a solution to combat food waste with just three simple ingredients: milk-fed pork stock, shellfish, and kindai kanpachi (a Japanese fish). Over time, Stu has evolved, now enriched with a variety of proteins, vegetables, and kitchen leftovers.

Chef Santos frequently tweaks Stu's flavor by introducing different ingredients, and any seasonal produce served to his customers can become part of the stew. Over the months, Stu has been enhanced with smoked anchovies, grass-fed beef trimmings, lamb fat, shellfish remains, roasted chicken bones, and unused vegetables, herbs, and mushroom stems.

If you're curious about the texture of a blend with these components, perpetual stew differs from dishes like beef stew or burgoo. It is skimmed and filtered, resulting in a deep, flavorful broth. Renowned as "liquid Umami" by chef Michael Colameco, this isn't just ordinary bone broth—it's a robust foundation for intricate recipes like duck ramen, garlic soup, and lobster chawanmushi, a Japanese custard steamed in a teacup.

The tradition of crafting a richly flavored stew over time has ancient roots, with bigos being a standout example. Originating in 14th-century Poland, this meat and sauerkraut dish, also called hunter's stew, combines game meats, foraged herbs, vegetables, fruits, wine, spices, and sauerkraut, simmered for days. As the stew evolves, fresh scraps and leftovers are continually added to enhance its depth.

Although perpetual stew demands prolonged cooking and careful maintenance of a steady simmer, some methods suggest freezing portions to deepen its tangy-spicy flavor. This tanginess is a key indicator of fermentation, a crucial stage in the stew's development. Fermentation is possible for any food under the right conditions, transforming it into something uniquely flavorful.

Fermented foods like sauerkraut and kimchi are staples in many cuisines, alongside other preserved items such as pickled vegetables. What makes these foods special is the presence of live bacteria, often referred to as "good" bacteria. These microorganisms support gut health, prevent harmful bacteria from thriving, and bolster the immune system.

The distinction between fermented and spoiled is delicate. For instance, Stu is cooked on an induction burner at around 200 degrees Fahrenheit (94 degrees Celsius), maintaining a gentle simmer with occasional bubbles. This temperature ensures safety, as harmful bacteria thrive between 40 degrees Fahrenheit (5 degrees Celsius) and 140 degrees Fahrenheit (60 degrees Celsius) but cannot survive the consistent heat of a simmer. When prepared and maintained correctly, perpetual stews like Stu can become cherished traditions, much like heirloom sourdough starters.

“A stew recipe from a hunting trip in Eastern Oregon has woven itself into our family’s story, despite initial doubts about the volume and quality of a dish made from week-long campfire leftovers,” shares Brynne Sapp in an interview. “Dubbed 'push,' it has since turned into a cherished family tradition.”

Beyond their rich flavors and cost-effectiveness, fermented foods are associated with numerous health benefits. Studies on Lactobacillus strains in fermented dairy like kefir and yogurt suggest a connection to alleviating gastrointestinal issues such as diarrhea and irritable bowel syndrome (IBS). Consuming live-culture dairy is also linked to lower risks of allergies, Type 2 diabetes, and respiratory and cardiovascular diseases. Notably, L. salivarius may offer protection against certain infectious diseases. Ongoing research explores the potential of probiotics in reducing joint pain, skin conditions, and even cancer risks. Additionally, fermented foods like Stu might positively impact mental health.