Buzz
When browsing for leather jackets, shoes, handbags, or other goods, you may notice a stamp reading “genuine leather.” If you’re unfamiliar with leather types, you might assume that’s a quality indication. For those with some leather knowledge, it could be a red flag. But the truth is, it’s not always a clear indicator either way. Let’s dive deeper into this.
The term 'Genuine' doesn't define a leather grade
There’s a common misconception that the primary leather categories are top grain, full grain, and “genuine.” However, leather artisans would tell you that this is not entirely accurate. While full grain and top grain are recognized terms in the leather industry—though their definitions may slightly differ between suppliers—“genuine leather” isn’t a proper technical term.
Other products are categorized using grading systems. For instance, steaks are graded by the U.S. Department of Agriculture as Prime, Choice, or Select, with further grades such as Standard and Commercial beneath them. However, leather lacks a similar grading structure.
Leather comes in a wide variety of types, splits, and finishes. Top grain or full grain leather retains the smooth surface of the skin. To make it thinner, it can be separated into layers. The lower layers, fuzzy on both sides, can be turned into suede or treated with coatings like polyurethane to mimic the appearance of top grain or full grain leather.
There is a technical term for this: it’s called a “finished split.” This refers to lower-quality leather that you are typically warned about when you see the “genuine leather” label. Finished splits can crack when bent, and their coatings may chip away over time. (Check out some photos here to see what this looks like.)
“Genuine leather” simply indicates it’s...leather
While many low-quality, split leather goods are branded as “genuine leather,” the label doesn’t necessarily mean poor quality. As North Star Leather explains in their blog, calling something “genuine leather” is like calling a burger “real beef.” They compare it to fast food chains emphasizing “real beef,” while high-end steakhouses don’t feel the need to advertise the same.
'Genuine leather' is often seen on products where the only noteworthy feature the seller can claim is that the material is indeed leather. This could suggest that the leather is of subpar quality. When a seller is able to share more details about the leather's origin or treatment, it is less likely to be labeled as 'genuine leather.'
That same blog also points out that this is a modern trend. In earlier times, vintage leather products were frequently labeled as 'genuine leather' to distinguish them from synthetic alternatives. Additionally, sellers from non-English-speaking countries may unintentionally use the term 'genuine leather' due to translation differences, not realizing it implies lower quality leather.
The North Star leatherworker highlights that the real issue is expecting a single term to determine whether a leather item is worth your investment. 'Don’t make a purchase just because you’re looking for or avoiding a specific word,' they advise. Instead, do your due diligence, considering factors like price and the reputation of the maker or company behind it.
