The Ultimate Guide to Getting a Perm, as Explained by Hair Experts

The world of perms is fascinatingly intricate. Not only is it a chemical process with a touch of science, but it also spans a wide range of styles—straight, wavy, and curly. The allure lies in transforming your hair texture, making your daily styling routine much easier.

However, before you rush to schedule your appointment, it's crucial to do thorough research. Don’t worry—we’ve got you covered. Below, we’re breaking down everything you need to know to achieve the ideal perm for your specific hair type.

What Is a Perm?

Let’s begin with the basics: “A perm stands for ‘permanent wave,’” explains Aaron Grenia, co-founder of IGK Hair Care. It’s “a well-known hairstyling technique that creates texture, volume, and shape.”

Today’s perms are far less voluminous than those of the ‘70s and ‘80s—and are gentler on the hair. They are “typically softer and less damaging than older formulas, often requiring shorter processing times,” Grenia notes.

Even the tools have advanced. “Modern perms offer a range of rod sizes and shapes, allowing for more personalized and natural-looking curls or waves,” he explains. In contrast, older methods “often created uniform and sometimes overly tight curls.”

What to Expect During the Perm Process

Perming your hair can take several hours, so be sure to clear a significant amount of time in your schedule before making an appointment. It’s also important to do your homework beforehand, choosing a salon that specializes in perms. Don’t hesitate to thoroughly check out your potential stylist’s Instagram to make sure you’re confident in their skills and work.

Step 1: Wash and Wrap

After discussing your desired outcome with your hairstylist, they’ll thoroughly wash your hair to remove any buildup from products, oil, or dirt. Then, they’ll section your hair and wrap it around perm rods or rollers, says Grenia. The size and type of the rods they use will determine how tight or loose your new curls or waves will be. (They’ll wrap the hair “tightly for smaller, tighter curls, or more loosely for larger, looser waves,” he adds).

Step 2: Apply Solution and Wait

Once your hair is wrapped around the rods, your stylist will apply a chemical solution. “This breaks down the disulfide bonds in the hair, which are responsible for its natural shape,” explains Grenia. Afterward, you’ll relax while your hair processes, which varies in time based on your hair type. On average, it takes about 15 to 20 minutes, according to Grenia.

Step 3: Rinse and Neutralize

Once the processing time is up, your stylist will remove the perm rods and thoroughly rinse your hair to remove the chemical solution. “A neutralizing solution will be applied to lock in the new curl shape,” explains Andrew Zumbo, an American Crew stylist. “This neutralization step is crucial because it reforms the hair bonds in the curly or wavy shape you desire,” he adds.

Step 4: Final Rinse and Condition

Lastly, your stylist will rinse your hair again. “The hair is gently rinsed once more, and a conditioning treatment may be used to restore moisture and maintain your hair's health,” Grenia concludes.

Different Types of Perms

During your one-on-one consultation with your stylist, you'll work together to choose the best style for you. “Today’s perm has received a modern update, creating more natural and relaxed curls and waves, unlike the tight, set perms that were popular in your grandmother’s day,” says Zumbo. The following perm styles are highly popular now:

1. Spiral Perm

A spiral perm is perfect for anyone looking for defined and textured curls, according to Zumbo. To achieve this look, he explains that hair is “wrapped around long rods in a spiral pattern” to create “uniform curls that begin at the roots and cascade down.”

2. Body Wave Perm

If you prefer softer, looser waves, a body wave perm might be the ideal choice. Zumbo explains that this type “involves wrapping sections of hair around larger rods to create a more relaxed, natural-looking wave. Unlike tight curls, body wave perms provide a subtler texture with volume and movement.”

3. Beach Wave Perm

For relaxed, tousled waves that give off the vibe of a day spent by the sea, Zumbo suggests the beach wave perm for a fuller, more voluminous look.

4. Volume-Boosting Perm

If adding volume is your main goal, a root perm is worth considering. Zumbo explains that this perm is specifically designed to provide lift and fullness, making it a great choice for those with fine or thin hair.

5. Straight Perm

Straight perms, also known as "thermal reconditioning," according to Zumbo, are designed to straighten curly or wavy hair. This method is particularly favored by those with frizzy or unruly curls who want a sleek, smooth, and long-lasting result.

6. Digital Perm

Digital perms are a modern variation that originated in Japan. Also called hot perms, this technique uses rods connected to a heater with a digital display, allowing your stylist to control the temperature. If you’re after beachy waves rather than tight curls, a digital perm is the perfect option.

7. Pin Curl Perm

Pin curls are created by rolling damp hair sections around your fingers and pinning them to your scalp until they dry. The result? 1920s-style finger waves. While pin curl perms typically don't require rollers (since they follow the same technique as regular pin curls), they tend to have a shorter lifespan compared to other types of perms.

8. Spot Perm

For individuals with wavy or curly hair that features straighter sections, a spot perm can be a great remedy. This technique involves applying rollers to specific areas of the hair, rather than the entire head. The purpose is to even out texture, providing a more consistent look for those with multiple hair types.

9. Stack Perm

Stack perms work by using rods of varying sizes on different layers of hair, creating a stacked effect without needing to cut the hair. The stylist will start with larger rods on the bottom layers, then move to medium-sized rods in the middle layers, and finish with smaller rods at the top, resulting in a layered appearance.

10. Multi-Textured Perms

A multi-textured perm is one of the most popular techniques, using a variety of rod sizes scattered throughout the hair to create a natural, relaxed look. By combining tighter curls and looser waves, this perm mimics the variation and movement of natural curls and waves.

11. Braid Perm

A braid perm is exactly as it sounds: the stylist braids the hair before applying the perm solution. The solution sets the waves, resulting in a crimped texture that's different from the traditional rod perm.

Frequently Asked Questions

• Who is the best candidate for a perm?

  Not everyone is a suitable candidate for a perm. According to Grenia, perms are most effective on hair that is naturally straight or has slight waves. “Hair that’s already quite curly might not hold the perm solution well and could result in overly tight or frizzy curls.”

  Additionally, you should avoid getting a perm if your hair is unhealthy. “If your hair is damaged, overly processed, or has a lot of split ends, a perm may not be ideal,” he cautions. “The chemicals can further damage fragile hair.”

• How long does a perm last?

  The lifespan of a perm can vary based on several factors such as hair type, the curl or wave style chosen, your hair care routine, and how quickly your hair grows. On average, a perm can last anywhere from two to six months before needing a touch-up, according to Grenia.

• Can I perm my hair at home?

  DIY perms, which have gained popularity on social media platforms like TikTok, are not recommended by the hairstylists consulted for this article. “While some DIY tasks can be fun and cost-effective, perming is a complex chemical process that should be handled by a professional to ensure safety and good results,” warns Grenia. “Risks of DIY perms include chemical burns, under or over-processing, and potential damage to your hair.”