The Unexpected History Behind Turkey as the Star of Thanksgiving Dinner

Many wonder, "Why is turkey the main dish for Thanksgiving?" Surprisingly, it wasn't always the holiday's centerpiece. We consulted an expert to uncover how turkey became synonymous with Thanksgiving, and here's the intriguing story.

Turkey Was Absent from the Menu at the "First Thanksgiving"

Turkey wasn't the main attraction back then. In 1621, English pilgrims in Plymouth, Massachusetts, celebrated their autumn harvest alongside the Wampanoag tribe. (This event was later labeled the "first Thanksgiving," though it was likely just a typical seasonal gathering at the time.)

Details about the three-day feast are scarce, leaving much of its history to speculation based on seasonal food availability and a letter penned by colonist Edward Winslow to a friend in England.

Winslow's letter mentions that the colonists hunted "fowl" for the feast, but the exact type remains unclear—it could have been turkey, goose, or duck. However, we know the Wampanoag hunters brought five deer, making venison the probable star of the meal.

Other likely dishes included corn, roots, berries, and seafood, which complemented the feast.

Turkey's Popularity Increased Over Time

Although turkey wasn't the main dish in 1621, it gradually became a staple at annual autumn harvest feasts due to its abundance and practicality. Native to the region and larger than other poultry like chickens or geese, turkeys were cost-effective for feeding large groups. Additionally, since turkeys didn’t produce milk or lay eggs, they were a logical choice for meat among North American settlers.

From the 1700s to the 1900s, North American turkeys were wild birds, as Albala notes. These were leaner and far different from the farm-raised turkeys we know today, which are bred to have larger breasts.

The way turkeys were presented at feasts also differed significantly from modern practices. “In medieval Europe, large birds like peacocks were skinned, cooked, and then re-dressed in their feathers for dramatic presentation,” Albala explains. “When turkeys arrived in Europe from America in the 17th century, they were served similarly.” This meant colonial settlers often saw whole turkeys, feathers and all, emerging from pies.

Turkey Day Was Formalized in the 1800s

Thanks to the persistent efforts of Sarah Josepha Hale, a writer and magazine editor, President Lincoln declared Thanksgiving a national holiday in 1863, setting it for the last Thursday in November.

Before becoming a national holiday, Thanksgiving was primarily celebrated in New England. Turkey, being affordable, abundant, and large, was a common feature of these festive meals. In her widely-read novel, Northwood: A Tale of New England (1827), Hale vividly describes a Thanksgiving feast featuring roasted turkey, gravy, and vegetables: "The roasted turkey claimed its place of honor at the head of the table, exuding the rich aroma of its savory stuffing and glistening with the sheen of its basting." (By this time, serving a feathered bird had fallen out of favor!)

As Hale campaigned for Thanksgiving's national recognition, she frequently included turkey recipes in her magazine, Godey's Lady's Book. By the time the holiday was officially established, turkey had become synonymous with Thanksgiving in the public's mind.

Turkey Consumption Remains High in America

Roasted turkey continues to dominate Thanksgiving tables, with approximately 46 million turkeys consumed during the holiday, as reported by the USDA.

However, the rest of the Thanksgiving menu is changing. “While traditional dishes remain popular, many people incorporate foods from their cultural heritage,” Albala notes.

While turkey is likely to stay a Thanksgiving tradition for years to come, the side dishes Americans enjoy reflect the nation's diverse cultural heritage. (Explore some of our tasty side dish suggestions.) For many, the turkey’s primary significance lies in its role as the centerpiece of a meal that marks the official beginning of the holiday season.