Tired of Limp Roots? A Root Perm Might Be Your Answer

A root perm is a treatment designed to give your hair extra texture and a boost of volume, whether your hair is naturally curly or straightened. If you're looking for a subtle change without making a full commitment, continue reading to see if a root perm could be the perfect option for you.

What Exactly Is a Root Perm?

As the name suggests, root perms focus solely on the roots of your hair, typically the first one to two inches of new growth. The solution penetrates the hair shaft, altering the bonds that determine the shape and texture of your strands.

“A permanent wave solution or ‘perm’ is an excellent choice for individuals with fine, thin hair seeking added volume,” says cosmetologist Karyne Tinord. “A water or solution base is applied to the roots, where it saturates the hair, breaking the bonds. As the hair dries, it sets in a curl pattern that creates a lifted, fuller look.”

Root perms can also be effective for those with afros or natural curls who desire more defined waves. “For individuals with coarser textures and tight curls, using a permanent solution or water base can temporarily loosen the curl pattern, making it softer and more flowing,” explains Tinord.

What Are the Different Types of Root Perms?

There are several methods available for root perms. The best option for you will depend on your hair's natural texture and the kind of transformation you want.

• The Korean root perm creates subtle volume at the root. If flat, lifeless strands need a lift, or you’re tired of volumizing sprays and teasing combs, this type of root perm is best. Korean root perms are ideal for people with straight or slightly wavy hair, as well as those who have dyed or bleached hair.
• Spiral root perms involve using curling rods to create thin, coiled curls. They appear less natural but perfectly styled and are ideal for longer hair lengths. 
• Perm touch-ups maintain the texture of a pre-existing perm. This type of root perm is ideal for people with new growth at the root that differs from their curly, straight, or wavy hair that has already been permed. 

How Long Does a Root Perm Last?

The longevity of a root perm varies from person to person and largely depends on your hair type. If you have fine or thin strands, a root perm should last two to three months. A root perm can last up to six months for other coarser or thicker hair types.

How long your root perm lasts will also depend on how fast your hair grows. If you have fast-growing locks, you're more likely to need touchups sooner than someone with slower-growing hair. Regardless of your timetable, you should schedule regular touchups with your stylist to avoid having your hair go flat.

Are Root Perms for Certain Hair Types? 

Most perms, including root perms, yield the best results on virgin, healthy hair. Experts recommend avoiding them if your scalp or hair follicles are severely damaged by bleach, relaxers, or harsh chemicals. For example, someone with balayage may be a better candidate for a root perm, as the harsh chemicals are applied only to the ends, leaving the roots untouched.

In terms of texture, those with fine, thin, or limp hair might experience more noticeable volume from a root perm. On the other hand, individuals with coarser or thicker hair may not see much of a change, as their hair already possesses natural volume. For shorter hairstyles, a root perm can add extra volume and movement.

If you have medical conditions affecting your hair or skin, it's important to consult with your doctor or dermatologist before getting a root perm. The chemicals used near the scalp can be harmful, so water-based or ‘soft perms’ might be a safer alternative. Once you've received clearance from your doctor, make sure to inform your stylist so they can select the appropriate solution for your specific needs.

What to Expect During a Root Perm

To begin, most professional stylists prefer to start with your hair unwashed. This ensures it's in the best condition for the treatment, and they will typically wash your hair in the salon to remove any excess sebum or debris.

After washing, your stylist may apply a prepping solution and place rollers at the roots. The hair will then be left to process for about 20 minutes, depending on the product used. While some solutions require heat, others do not. Once the processing time is up, your stylist will thoroughly rinse out your hair to remove all traces of the prepping solution.

Next, the stylist may apply a setting solution to lock your hair into its new shape. Once the setting solution has done its work, the stylist will rinse it out and remove the perm rods before proceeding with drying and styling. After the treatment, most stylists recommend avoiding water (including sweat) for at least 48 hours. Root perms typically last between three to six months before requiring a retouch.

Can You Do a Root Perm Yourself?

Here’s the deal: Permanent root perm solutions can be harsh and unpleasant-smelling. The use of complex chemicals across the entire scalp makes it advisable to leave this process to a professional hairstylist, who will ensure the procedure doesn't harm your hair or scalp. Water-based solutions are easier to manage at home, but reaching the back or middle of your head can still be tricky. Here are some things to consider before deciding to tackle this at home.

Hair Length

The longer your hair, the more time it will need to process. Root perms are best suited for short to medium-length hair. With longer hair, there's a higher risk that the solution could accidentally affect areas beyond the roots.

Chemical Type

There are two main types of chemical solutions for root perms: acidic and alkaline. The acidic solution, also called a hot perm, is perfect for fine, damaged, or fragile hair, and creates more natural-looking curls. The alkaline solution, or cold perm, is better suited for coarse or textured hair.

Time Commitment

Root perms typically take between two to six hours to complete. This includes parting the hair, applying the solution, using curling rods, and ensuring every root is properly treated. Since chemical solutions need to work within a set time frame and require uniform application, it’s unlikely most people could complete the process successfully on their own.

Maintaining a Root Perm

Root perms require much less upkeep than traditional perms. However, for the first couple of days, it's important to follow post-perm care rules. Avoid water and moisture for 48 hours—this includes sweating, so you might want to skip your workouts for a bit!

Tight updos should also be avoided during the first week or so. Wait at least a week, though two weeks is ideal, before adding any chemical treatments to your hair, such as highlights or other color treatments.

Once you've passed the first week or so, root perms require minimal maintenance. You might consider applying a scalp oil treatment occasionally to prevent dryness from the chemicals, but your hair won't need the same delicate care that a full perm would require.

The great thing is that your hair might become easier to manage after getting a root perm. Volumizing sprays, mousses, and other styling products will likely become unnecessary, as the perm will handle the volume on its own.