Buzz
Since ancient times, humans have been drawn to fragrances. Whether to enhance their surroundings, honor deities, or conceal bodily odors, perfume has remained a consistent part of our cultural heritage.
Early fragrances were crafted entirely from natural elements. Sacred perfumes primarily featured resins like frankincense, opoponax, and myrrh, along with rare woods, while personal scents incorporated floral and fruity notes. By the late 19th century, scientific advancements led to the discovery of novel aromas, marking the birth of modern perfumery. For the first time, natural ingredients, though still dominant, were complemented by innovative synthetic compounds.
Over a century later, contemporary perfumes are predominantly built on synthetic bases, with minimal natural oils added. Yet, many historical ingredients persist in today’s fragrances. Surprisingly, some of these components—both natural and synthetic—are remarkably unusual. While it’s unclear who first realized it, even the most exquisite scents can be elevated by incorporating odd, and sometimes off-putting, elements. This list explores 10 of the most peculiar.
10. Tonquin Deer Musk
Kicking off our list is tonquin deer musk, the least offensive-smelling ingredient. Male deer of certain species possess musk pods between their legs, which they use to mark their territory and attract mates. For over a millennium, humans have valued this musk for its ability to enhance the longevity of fragrances.
Sadly, while musk can be harvested without killing the deer, it is often more convenient to do so. This ingredient was so coveted that it was a staple in nearly every perfume until the 1970s, when CITES (the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora) imposed restrictions. It was even utilized as a food additive.
As you might imagine, deer musk doesn’t smell particularly appealing in its raw form, but when heavily diluted, it takes on a floral and sensual quality. Typically used in concentrations of 3 percent or less as a fixative, some perfumes incorporated much higher amounts to achieve a distinct animalistic aroma. One such fragrance, still available today, is Chanel No 5, though it has evolved significantly from its original formula. The original version contained a staggering 15 percent deer musk tincture and 15 percent civet tincture (more on that later!). Unsurprisingly, the original Chanel No 5 was a bold, intense scent compared to today’s lighter floral interpretation. Bottles of the original are highly sought after on eBay and fetch premium prices.
9. Castoreum
Next on our list is another ingredient that’s relatively mild in scent but undeniably unusual, given its origin and use in fragrances.
Castoreum is a substance secreted from the castor sacs of beavers, located near their anal glands. Beavers use this secretion to mark their territory, and in the world of perfumery, it is classified as a type of musk.
The scent of castoreum has a pleasing similarity to wood and leather, which made it a popular choice in perfumery to replicate these notes before modern alternatives were developed. While most contemporary fragrances no longer include it, it remains a key component in high-end perfumes, often blended with synthetic leather notes to achieve a more authentic aroma.
One of Francois Coty’s iconic fragrances, L’Origan (1908), contained a substantial 0.5 percent pure castoreum. Similar to deer musk, it serves as a fixative and contributes significantly to the scent’s character. Unfortunately, like many perfumes today, L’Origan has been reformulated to meet modern safety and marketing standards. To experience the original, you’ll need to seek out vintage bottles on platforms like eBay.
Interestingly, castoreum is still utilized today as a natural food additive, enhancing the flavors of strawberry and raspberry. It’s highly likely that you’ve not only worn this ingredient but also consumed it in your food!
8. Dimethyl Sulfide
Dimethyl sulfide ranks among the most potent chemicals in perfumery, emitting a sharp, unpleasant aroma reminiscent of sulfur and onions. Naturally occurring in onions, asparagus, durian fruit, and the dead horse arum lily, it is also unexpectedly present in roses and geraniums.
In fragrances, dimethyl sulfide is employed to enhance the rosy quality of geranium oil, create a more authentic rose base, and, surprisingly, to mimic the scent of the seaside, as it is a natural component of beach air.
It’s important not to confuse dimethyl sulfide with dimethyl sulfate, which also has an onion-like smell but is a hazardous substance used in chemical weapons.
7. Costus Oil
Costus oil, a once-popular ingredient in classical perfumery, has recently been banned due to its endangered status in India and concerns over its sensitizing properties, though this remains debated. It was a staple in iconic men’s fragrances like Aramis and Patou Pour Homme, both of which have since been reformulated to exclude it.
To understand the scent of costus oil, think of the aroma of wet dog hair—a surprisingly accurate comparison. Its odor is intensely potent and generally unappealing, even when diluted. However, its true potential shines when blended with other animal-derived ingredients like castoreum and civet.
When skillfully incorporated into a fragrance, costus oil imparts a unique blend of unripe melons and iris flowers, two scents that are challenging to replicate using purely natural components.
While synthetic alternatives for costus oil are available, none can fully capture the intricate complexity of the natural extract.
6. Phenols
Phenols represent a broad group of compounds in perfumery, naturally produced by many plants as a defense against insects and environmental factors. The most widely used phenols in fragrances are cresols, named for their initial synthesis from creosote, a derivative of coal tar.
Similar to their namesake, cresols emit a strong odor reminiscent of creosote—a sharp, industrial cleaner-like scent. Interestingly, many also share a striking similarity to the smell of horse and human urine, largely due to the presence of para-Cresol in both.
While it may seem odd to include such a scent in perfumes, phenols are crucial for replicating certain floral aromas, such as jonquils and Ylang Ylang. They are also instrumental in crafting imaginary blends of lilac and hyacinth.
It’s safe to assume that most fragrances contain phenols, either as synthetic additives or naturally occurring in floral oils like jasmine. Notably, salicylic acid, a key component of aspirin, is also a type of phenol.
5. Ambergris
Ambergris is a secretion from the intestines of sperm whales. While scientists remain uncertain about how it is expelled, it is known that ambergris used in perfumery must have aged for years in the ocean. Fresh ambergris, such as that obtained directly from a whale, is useless for fragrances due to its overwhelmingly unpleasant odor.
After extensive aging, ambergris loses much of its offensive smell, developing a softer, slightly floral scent. Its primary role in perfumery is as a fixative—even a minuscule amount can make a fragrance last for days on the skin. Historically, it was a staple in nearly every perfume.
Unlike other ingredients on this list, its limited use in modern perfumes is due not to animal welfare concerns or its smell but its exorbitant cost—starting at $26,000 per kilogram ($57,000/lb), depending on quality. The high price stems from its rarity, as most ambergris is discovered by chance on beaches.
In the past, ambergris was also a luxury food additive, favored by King Charles II, who enjoyed it regularly with his scrambled eggs.
4. Indole
Indole is a naturally occurring chemical in many white flowers, such as orange blossom, jasmine, and lilies. Despite its strong fecal odor, it is essential in perfumery for adding authenticity to floral compositions. A synthetic jasmine base won’t truly resemble jasmine until a small amount of this pungent substance is incorporated. In modern minimalist fragrances, indole is often used independently to evoke a jasmine-like note.
Interestingly, indoles are derived from a chemical that mimics serotonin, interacting with brain receptors to induce feelings of pleasure. LSD, an indole alkaloid, exploits this same mechanism, which is why it is so widely used. A safer alternative, however, would be to enjoy the scent of jasmine flowers, offering the same pleasure without the hallucinogenic side effects.
3. Skatole
There’s no sugarcoating it: Skatole is downright revolting. Even in highly diluted forms, its odor is overpowering. However, when mixed with other compounds, it transforms into a floral scent. Naturally found in feces and coal tar, skatole is the pure, unadulterated essence of these materials—essentially, it’s the very definition of fecal stench.
Although skatole belongs to the indole family, its intensely offensive nature earns it a separate place on this list—and arguably the top position.
In addition to being a key component of animal waste odor, skatole is also present in tiny amounts in many flowers, including jasmine and orange blossom. When combined with indole, it contributes to the deeply sensual undertones of these blooms.
One of the most renowned fragrances to feature skatole, arguably in excessive amounts, was Nuit de Chine (Chinese Nights) by Maurice Schaller in 1913 for Les Parfums de Rosine. This fougère-style perfume centered around sandalwood, skatole, peach, and rose. Upon smelling it, the skatole is immediately noticeable, yet it is so harmoniously blended with the other elements that it becomes irresistibly captivating.
This is precisely why such unusual ingredients are included in the perfumes we adore: they trigger a powerful and pleasurable psychological response in our brains.
2. Mercaptans
Mercaptans are a group of chemicals notorious for their foul odor, often described as resembling rotting cabbage. Despite their strong sulfurous scent, their use in perfumery lies in the nuanced differences between their types. For instance, ribes mercaptan carries a hint of black currant, while furfuryl mercaptan has a subtle coffee note. Skilled perfumers use these materials to minimize the sulfurous aspect while highlighting the unique accent notes.
Mercaptans, along with dimethyl sulfide, are naturally present in human flatus (gas). Their intensely unpleasant smell makes them ideal for scenting otherwise odorless natural gas, ensuring gas leaks are easily detectable.
1. Civet Musk
Civet musk is a dense secretion from the glands of the civet cat, a mammal predominantly found in Africa and India. The most sought-after civet musk originates from farmed animals in Ethiopia. Its odor is intensely pungent and overpowering. Historically, it has been used in perfumery and as a food additive. It’s also famously linked to Kopi Luwak—coffee beans excreted by civets—featured in our list of bizarre foods from our early days.
Similar to other ingredients on this list, civet musk transforms into a uniquely appealing floral-animalic scent when highly diluted. It was a key component in Francois Coty’s iconic Chypre (comprising 1 percent of the formula) and, as previously mentioned, in the original Chanel No 5 by Ernest Beaux. Most fragrances until the late 20th century included trace amounts of civet. Even today, high-end perfumes continue to use it, though mainstream brands often exclude it or opt for synthetic alternatives, as seen in Guerlain’s Jicky, which no longer incorporates natural animal products.
Historically, civet paste was often adulterated to boost profits, with common additives being honey and human baby feces—highlighting just how repulsive the genuine substance smells. The purity of civet paste was traditionally tested through taste.
+Competition
It’s been a while since Mytour hosted a competition, so I’m excited to announce one today.
Recently, I’ve been experimenting with perfumery and have acquired samples of all the ingredients mentioned above. These are top-quality materials sourced from the world’s leading suppliers of perfumery raw materials, all compliant with international regulations on animal product trade.
Reading about these intriguing ingredients is one thing, but experiencing them is another. To make that possible, we’ll send a small vial of each of the 10 ingredients listed here to three lucky winners—10 vials per person.
The prize will be awarded to the authors of the three most upvoted comments—so make your contributions engaging and captivating!
Submissions will close 48 hours after this list is published. The competition is open to readers of all ages and from any country.
