Top 10 Tips for Hydrating Oily Skin

Oily skin is often characterized by a shiny, greasy appearance with enlarged pores. It’s caused by an excess production of sebum, a natural oily substance that the body’s sebaceous glands secrete through hair follicles to maintain skin and hair health. These glands are found all over the body, but mostly on the face, chest, shoulders, and upper back. When too much sebum is produced, resulting in a condition known as hyperseborrhea, pores can become clogged. This combination of excess oil, dead skin cells, and trapped bacteria can lead to acne. While oily skin doesn't always mean acne, many with this skin type experience breakouts as well.

If sebum is the issue, should we simply get rid of it? Not exactly. It’s important to maintain a balance. You don’t want to strip all of the sebum away when managing oily skin, as that can be damaging. It’s tricky because many oily skin products can be too harsh, leading to over-drying. Contrary to popular belief, moisturizing is essential for oily skin. Dermatologists advise incorporating a moisturizer into your daily skincare routine to counter the drying effects of oil-reducing products.

The purpose of moisturizing your skin is to hydrate it, and this doesn’t require adding oils. Let’s start with our 10 tips for moisturizing oily skin by exploring the different types of moisturizers and their functions.

10: Occlusives, Humectants, and Emollients

Before selecting the right moisturizer for your skin, it’s important to understand how moisturizers function.

Moisturizers hydrate and soften the skin. While there are different types available, they mainly fall into categories that lock moisture into the skin, smooth the skin, or draw moisture to the surface.

Occlusives and emollients help to soften and smooth the skin. Occlusives, such as petroleum jelly, paraffin, and collagen, work by forming a protective layer on the skin that seals in moisture, similar to how sebum naturally helps keep skin hydrated. Emollients, which include oils and lipids like stearic acid and essential fatty acids, repair and soften the skin, with creamier moisturizers being richer in emollients. Humectants like panthenol, urea, and glycerin draw moisture from the deeper layers of the skin to the outermost layer, and in humid environments, they can also attract moisture from the air.

Most moisturizers are designed with a blend of humectants, occlusives, and emollients to draw moisture in, lock it in, improve skin texture, and provide hydration and repair. For those with oily skin, beware: Occlusives tend to be thick and greasy, and if your skin is already oily, these ingredients may trap excess sebum and cause breakouts.

9: Exfoliate

Dead skin. It’s something you might not often consider, but it's present. Your body naturally sheds the outermost layer of dead skin cells roughly every 30 to 45 days, depending on age. Why should this matter? When dead skin cells accumulate, they can cause once-glowing skin to appear dull. You may notice flakiness, scaliness, excessive oiliness, and even breakouts.

Thankfully, you can support your skin by incorporating weekly exfoliation into your routine. Numerous exfoliating products are available, from cleansers and scrubs to peels. You can also find moisturizers that provide exfoliating benefits. Choose products with glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, or salicylic acid—these are alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs). AHAs help loosen dead skin cells, promoting faster skin turnover. Additionally, AHAs are beneficial for oily skin because they help reduce oil production.

8: Choose Lightweight, Oil-Free Products

The ideal moisturizer for oily skin is lightweight, non-comedogenic (meaning it won’t clog your pores), and free of oil. Heavy, rich creams aren’t suitable for oily skin. A light, oil-free formula won’t aggravate blemishes but also won’t cause them. Some moisturizers contain talc to absorb excess shine, and if you’re looking for something to combat acne flare-ups, opt for a product with antibacterial ingredients. There’s a moisturizer for every skin type, but finding the right one may require some experimentation.

7: Cleanse, Treat, Moisturize

The order of your skin care routine matters, particularly when using products that can dehydrate your skin. Begin by washing with a gentle cleanser and patting your skin dry. Next, apply any acne treatment or prevention products. Follow up with a lightweight moisturizer. Applying a daily lotion to oily skin can help alleviate the dryness, redness, and irritation caused by both prescription and over-the-counter acne treatments. What you might not know is that regular daily moisturizing can actually enhance the effectiveness of these treatments, as they’ll work better on smooth, healthy skin.

6: Proper Application

While applying your facial moisturizer might seem straightforward, there is a right way to do it. Always apply your lotion sparingly with your fingertips, using a gentle motion to avoid any harsh pressure on the skin.

Start by moisturizing your cheeks using gentle outward strokes (avoid circular or vertical motions). For the delicate skin around your eyes, use soft strokes moving outward toward the temples, and also in the area between your brows. When applying lotion to your forehead and neck, switch to gentle upward strokes. Reapply your moisturizer after each face wash (once or twice a day for oily skin), within three minutes of cleansing for maximum hydration benefits.

5: Adjust for Seasonal Changes

Does your skin’s hydration need shift with the changing seasons? What works in the humid, hot summer months might not be as effective in controlling oil production during the cold, dry winter. Depending on the weather, you may need to adjust the amount of moisturizer you use. Don’t hesitate to try different products for different seasons. Stick with lightweight formulas, and use just enough depending on the time of year and your skin’s needs.

But it’s not only the seasons that affect your skin’s balance of oil or dryness. Be mindful of flare-ups caused by hormonal shifts, certain medications (like steroids), and even the pressure from your glasses or the chin strap of your bike helmet (these can irritate the skin, especially for those with oily faces).

4: Combine Moisturizer and Sunscreen

This tip is crucial for everyone, no matter your skin type. According to the American Academy of Dermatology, a solid skincare routine includes moisturizing and applying sunscreen daily. This helps keep your skin hydrated while also protecting it from sun damage and premature aging, regardless of your skin’s characteristics.

For those with oily skin who are dealing with acne, it’s especially important to wear sunscreen every day. It’s a misconception that sun exposure can clear up acne. In fact, some acne treatments, like topical retinoids (e.g., Retin-A), make your skin more sensitive to UV rays. If using both a moisturizer and sunscreen seems like a lot, consider a combination product. Look for an oil-free, lightweight lotion that has at least SPF 15 for UVA/UVB protection. Alternatively, gel or spray sunscreen is a great option for oily skin.

3: Keep It Cool

If you love long, hot showers or baths, here’s a bit of bad news: Hot water strips your skin of its natural oils. While this might seem like a good idea if you have oily skin, it actually causes your skin to lose moisture. So, after that relaxing bath, you may end up with flaky, rough patches on already oily and acne-prone skin.

How can a hot bath dehydrate your skin? When the water temperature exceeds 100 degrees Fahrenheit (37.8 degrees Celsius), it may feel luxurious, but as your body heats up, it activates your body's cooling system. The sympathetic nervous system kicks in, dilating the blood vessels in your skin to help cool down the body. In simple terms, your body senses the heat and tries to cool itself, causing your skin’s moisture to evaporate.

For optimal skin hydration, water temperatures between 85 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit (29.4 to 35 degrees Celsius) are best. If you can handle it, even room temperature water can do the trick. Keep your showers brief, and try to limit face washing to just one to two minutes.

2: Moisturizing Combination Skin

Not all oily skin is the same. For some, it’s a combination of rough, flaky patches and areas that are shiny, greasy, and prone to breakouts. This is what makes face washing a bit more complicated.

Combination skin is a blend of oily (typically in the T-zone) and dry (often on the cheeks) areas, creating a unique challenge for skin care. Since different regions of the face have distinct needs, it can be tricky to manage. Opt for mild, oil-free products that cater to both the dry and oily parts of your face.

For your daily facial moisturizing, choose a lightweight liquid lotion (avoid thick creams) that includes sunscreen. Incorporate products with AHAs to help combat acne and fine lines. Be cautious, as even a small amount goes a long way, and remember that AHAs can make your skin more sensitive to sunlight, so sunscreen is a must.

1: Use Gentle Products

Even though your oily, shiny skin might tempt you to scrub your face multiple times with harsh products and acne treatments, resist the urge. Harsh ingredients can dry out your skin (yes, oily skin can be dried out too), prompting your body to produce even more oil. Avoid products containing salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, rubbing alcohol, and exfoliants with large, rough particles like coarse salt or crushed walnut shells. These are too abrasive for your face. While oily skin may tolerate some ingredients better than dry or sensitive skin, it’s still vulnerable to irritation from scrubs, drying agents, and fragrances. Gentle products will avoid inflaming your skin, reducing the risk of acne flare-ups.