Understanding Your Hair Type—and Why It Matters

Just as determining your skin type helps you choose the right skincare products, identifying your hair type is essential for meeting its unique needs. The products suitable for curly or coily hair won't work for fine hair, and the care for color-treated hair differs from that for thinning hair. Hairstylists explain the various hair types and how to care for each one.

The Importance of Knowing Your Hair Type

Understanding your hair type provides insight into its natural behavior, such as its response to moisture, styling products, and humidity, according to Kari Williams, PhD, a trichologist and director of education for Cécred. Similar to your skin, your hair type and its requirements can evolve over time. “Factors like aging, hormonal changes, heat damage, or chemical treatments can alter your hair type,” Dr. Williams explains. 

The 4 Main Hair Types (and Their Subcategories)

Hair types are categorized into four main groups (1 through 4). “Each type typically has three subcategories, determined by the curl pattern and texture,” says celebrity hairstylist Emilio Uribe. “These subcategories reflect variations in the tightness of waves or curls.” For instance, 2A features loose waves, while 2C has more pronounced curls. 

Uribe shared detailed insights, including professional recommendations on the best hair products for each hair type. 

Straight Hair (Type 1)

This hair type lies flat, lacking natural waves. It tends to become oily faster because the scalp's natural oils can easily travel down the hair shaft.

• 1A: Thin, flat, and shiny. Opt for volumizers and texturizers to add lift and manage oil. 
• 1B: Straight with a slight texture and more body. Lightweight products are ideal for adding volume without causing oiliness.
• 1C: Straight with bends, holds curls but is prone to frizz. Avoid heavy creams. 

Wavy Hair (Type 2)

Hair with a natural “S” shape is classified as wavy. It has more texture than straight hair but isn’t as tightly coiled as curly hair.

• 2A: Features loose, soft waves that may flatten. Volumizers help lift roots. 
• 2B: Displays beachy waves, which can flatten at the crown. Dry shampoos and curl creams enhance texture. 
• 2C: The curliest wavy type, with an S-pattern and frizz. Focus on moisturizing and use hair-plopping for better definition.

Curly Hair (Type 3)

This hair type features well-defined curls or ringlets. The size and tightness of the curls can vary, and maintaining moisture is crucial to keep them healthy and lively.

• 3A: Loose, bouncy curls that are prone to frizz. Hydrating curl creams work best. 
• 3B: Springy ringlets that are tighter and drier. Focus on moisturizing without heavy silicones. 
• 3C: Tight corkscrews that are coarse and dry. Regular conditioning helps prevent breakage.

Kinky/Coiled Hair (Type 4)

This hair type is characterized by tight curls or coils. It is the most fragile of all hair types and often needs consistent hydration and gentle care to avoid breakage.

• 4A: Tight S-shaped coils that retain moisture. Use curl creams to enhance definition. 
• 4B: Zigzag coils with high shrinkage. Rich moisturizers are essential to combat dryness. 
• 4C: The tightest and most fragile coils with minimal definition. Heavy moisturizers and detanglers are crucial.

Identifying Your Hair Type

Uribe recommends washing your hair and allowing it to air dry or blow dry naturally, avoiding brushes or styling tools. Observe the natural shape and texture of your hair, then compare it to the guide above. You can also ask yourself these questions: 

1. Does it dry straight, wavy, curly, or tightly coiled?
2. Are the ends frizzy, brittle, or dry?
3. How does my hair respond to humidity?  
4. Does deep conditioning benefit my hair or make it feel heavy? 

By visually examining your hair and answering these questions, you can determine your hair type and select the best products. Dr. Williams emphasizes the importance of understanding your hair’s current needs, or its “need state,” to address issues like hydration, strengthening, thinning, or color fading effectively. 

If you’re unsure about your hair type or its specific requirements, Uribe suggests seeking advice from a professional hairstylist during your next salon appointment. They can provide a clear assessment and share expert tips to perfect your hair care regimen.