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Acne can appear in various forms, from painful cystic lumps to small pustules filled with debris, each requiring a different treatment approach. A sebum plug is essentially an early stage of acne, leading to blackheads and whiteheads, which typically form in clusters on the forehead, chin, and nose. Below, we explain what sebum plugs are, how to remove them effectively, and offer tips on preventing them.
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What Exactly Are Sebum Plugs?
Sebum plugs occur when pores become blocked by a thick mix of oil (sebum) and debris, including dirt, makeup, and dead skin cells. These plugs manifest as small, firm white bumps beneath the skin's surface, or they may even protrude slightly, resembling tiny grains of rice.
Individuals may experience just a few at a time, or they may appear as a cluster across the nose, cheeks, and forehead, according to Kenneth Mark, MD, FAAD, a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist.
PeopleImages/Getty ImagesSebum Plugs vs. Blackheads and Whiteheads
Although sebum plugs, blackheads, and whiteheads are interconnected, they each have distinct characteristics. “Blackheads are black due to the oxidation of pore contents when exposed to oxygen, whereas whiteheads contain non-oxidized pore material,” explains Kseniya Kobets, MD, FAAD, director of Cosmetic Dermatology at Montefiore-Einstein Advanced Care.
She explains that sebaceous plugs may begin as whiteheads or blackheads but become more compact and solidified over time. Because of this, they tend to be denser, firmer, and can be more difficult to treat or remove.
What Triggers Sebum Plugs?
Sebum plugs develop when there is excessive oil production paired with insufficient exfoliation and/or cleansing. Other contributing factors include stress, hormonal changes, certain medications, and cosmetics.
“Individuals more prone to producing oil in their skin will generate greater amounts of oil and have larger pores where debris and oil can accumulate,” adds Dr. Kobets. “Sebum plugs can be worsened by failing to wash away excess oil, makeup, pollutants, or other skin debris, letting it build up in the pores over time.”
How to Eliminate Sebum Plugs
The most effective way to clear sebum plugs is by cleaning your face daily—ensuring all makeup and dirt are completely removed—and exfoliating gently. Acne-fighting ingredients like salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide can also help get rid of these pesky bumps.
- Cleanse Regularly: Dr. Kobets advises washing your face both morning and night with a gentle foaming cleanser designed for oily or acne-prone skin.
- Micellar Water: To make sure all dirt, debris, and makeup are removed, follow up with a mild micellar water or toner. Apply to a cotton pad and gently sweep over your skin.
- Exfoliate Gently: Exfoliating is key when dealing with sebum plugs, according to Dr. Mark. Consider products with salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide to break down dead skin cells and dissolve excess oil.
- Topical Retinoids: “Prescription retinoid medications can exfoliate and reduce sebum production from the sebaceous glands,” Dr. Mark shares.
- Professional Treatments: If home remedies aren’t effective, Dr. Mark recommends seeing a professional once a month for treatments like a medical-grade chemical peel or microdermabrasion. A gentle facial with extractions can also help clear up congested pores.
- Review Your Skincare Routine: Dr. Kobets suggests evaluating your current routine and cutting back on products with oils or dimethicone listed at the top of the ingredients list. These ingredients can lead to pore congestion and the formation of plugs over time.
Should You Squeeze Sebum Plugs?
While estheticians and dermatologists are trained to remove sebum plugs in a clinical setting, Dr. Kobets advises against trying to do it yourself. Squeezing them at home may feel satisfying, but it can lead to infection, spread bacteria, aggravate acne, and even push the stubborn plugs deeper into the skin.
In some cases, squeezing can result in scarring. It’s better to follow the recommended treatments listed earlier, which will help prevent the formation of new plugs and keep your skin clearer in the long run.
