Buzz
Broad-breasted white turkeys are primarily bred for their rapid growth and ample white meat, not their health, vocalizations, or intellect. Check out pictures of wild turkeys.
Dan Burn-Forti/Stone/Getty ImagesAmericans consume a staggering 267 million turkeys annually, with the broad-breasted white turkey reigning supreme in supermarkets. Few have tried any other type. This breed, recognized by its large breasts and pure white feathers (not present at birth), became the dominant turkey variety after George Nicholas gave it a makeover in the 1950s, propelling turkey farming into a multimillion-dollar industry.
In the 1930s, families sought smaller turkeys suitable for their needs—turkeys that could easily fit in refrigerators and ovens while providing more white meat and no dark pin feathers. This demand, along with selective breeding techniques, led to the turkey evolution by the end of World War II.
Selective breeding, often referred to as artificial selection, differs from genetic modification (GM), even though the terms are frequently used interchangeably. Both processes involve altering an organism's genes (whether animal, plant, or bacteria). However, genetic modification is a sophisticated technique that manipulates an organism’s DNA – widely applied in crops like cotton, corn, soy, and canola. GM combines genes from different organisms to create new traits, and theoretically, you could even cross cotton and pigs using this method.
Selective breeding involves pairing two members of the same species to enhance desirable traits, which they pass on to future generations. For example, cows that produce the highest milk yields may be chosen to breed, helping to increase milk production in the offspring. Likewise, two types of corn may be crossbred to develop a hybrid with higher yields. In turkeys, those with faster growth, larger breasts, and white feathers were selectively bred to create the broad-breasted white variety.
Let’s explore the lives of the broad-breasted white turkeys and their distant relatives, the heritage turkeys, which were once on the brink of extinction.
Turkey Talk: Broad-breasted Whites vs. Heritage Turkeys
These wild turkeys are the direct descendants of the birds that pilgrims would have encountered. They remain genetically unchanged.
Stephen J. Krasemann / Photographer's Choice /Getty ImagesWhen Ben Franklin proposed in 1784 that the turkey be the United States' national bird, he could never have envisioned the factory farms brimming with plump, unintelligent broad-breasted white turkeys.
The turkeys raised in modern factory farms are almost unrecognizable compared to the wild birds Franklin knew. These factory-bred birds possess disproportionately large breasts, making it difficult for them to walk, stand, or even mate naturally. Relying on artificial insemination for reproduction, they start life in incubators, undergo beak and toenail clipping, and spend their lives consuming fortified corn in overcrowded barns. Their limited genetic pool has made them prone to diseases and lack of intelligence. To prevent various health issues, they are given antibiotics. These birds grow unnaturally fast and are sent to slaughterhouses by the time they reach 12 weeks of age.
An alternative to factory-farmed turkeys is the heritage turkey, which was nearly extinct by the close of the 20th century. However, the 2006 U.S. turkey census recorded around 8,800 heritage turkeys, a significant rise from 1,300 in 1997 [source: Mapes]. Thanks to small enthusiast groups and the Slow Food movement, these turkeys are making a comeback. You can find them in specialty markets across the country. Slow Food advocates value knowing where their food comes from, how it’s raised, its flavor, and its connection to the community and the environment. Heritage turkeys are vastly different from the frozen, bowling-ball-shaped birds you might find in your local supermarket's freezer. These birds offer rich, gamey meat that doesn’t need gravy to enhance its flavor.
The American Poultry Association recognizes fewer than a dozen heritage turkey breeds that meet its Standard of Perfection, including the standard bronze, Beltsville small white, black, Bourbon red, Jersey buff, Narragansett, royal palm, slate, white Holland, and white midget.
For a turkey to be considered a heritage variety, it must meet three main criteria. First, it must mate naturally, and its genetic legacy must also be bred naturally. Second, the turkey must be able to live a long, productive life outdoors, meaning it must be fit and self-sufficient enough to withstand various environmental challenges. Unlike industry-bred birds, heritage turkeys can roost, run, and even fly. Hens (female turkeys) typically live five to seven years, while toms (male turkeys) live around three to five years [source: American Livestock Breeds Conservancy]. Lastly, heritage turkeys grow at a slower pace. While broad-breasted white turkeys are bred for rapid growth, heritage turkeys take their time to develop healthy bones, organs, and muscles, which can take up to 28 weeks [source: American Livestock Breeds Conservancy].
However, most Americans will stick with the easy-to-find broad-breasted white turkey. So, as you give thanks over your turkey this Thanksgiving, take a moment to appreciate selective breeding for providing the abundance of white meat you're about to enjoy.
While breeders may focus on creating larger birds, they aren't as eager to share the details with you. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration currently supports this approach, as producers are not required to label genetically modified poultry, meat, or seafood. Additionally, they don't have to disclose any antibiotics, hormones, or other medications given to the animals.
