Remember those olestra chips labeled with "WOW!"? While the branding has disappeared, the U.S. FDA’s April 2013 report still recognizes olestra as a permissible food additive for direct use in human food.
John Barr/Hulton Archive/Getty ImagesImagine a world where we could eat whatever we crave, exercise only when we feel like it, and still feel thrilled stepping on the scale. Picture a futuristic device that extracts all the fat from our favorite foods while keeping their flavor intact. Sounds like a dream, doesn’t it?
Until such a device becomes a reality (perhaps a Nobel Prize contender by 2050?), we’re stuck managing our weight through exercise and mindful eating. For some, this means cutting back on portions, while others might opt for low-fat or fat-free alternatives. But without a magical machine, how do these fat-free treats manage to shed their fat content?
To begin, what exactly is fat? While we recognize it in our meals, its chemical structure reveals long carbon chains accompanied by oxygen and hydrogen atoms, making it unique (see How Fats Work). These carbon chains make fats resistant to water, requiring organic solvents like chloroform or methylene chloride for dissolution. At first glance, washing fatty foods with such solvents might seem like a solution, similar to decaffeinating coffee or tea. However, fat plays a crucial role in food—enhancing flavor, texture, browning, and shelf life. Simply removing fat would drastically alter the food’s essence, so preserving its qualities is essential.
Peeking Behind the Fat-free Curtain
Many foods, such as fruits, vegetables, and whole grains, are naturally fat-free or contain minimal fat. However, our focus is on foods that initially contain significant fat and require modification.
Dairy products are a prime example. Fresh milk contains a notable amount of fat, which many prefer to reduce. The process involves using a centrifuge to separate the fat into cream, leaving behind skim milk. This skim milk is then used to produce low-fat or nonfat dairy items like yogurt and sour cream. However, these products often face issues like poor taste, odd textures, and shorter shelf life [source: Millstone]. For instance, fat-free cheese is crafted by avoiding fat from the start rather than removing it later.
Rather than extracting fat from a finished product like a cookie—resulting in something unrecognizable—food scientists create fat-free versions from scratch. They replace fat with nonfat additives to replicate flavor and texture. For instance, the rich taste of butter and eggs is compensated with extra spices and sugar, often making low-fat foods higher in calories. To address texture, binders like gums and starches are added, along with water. However, this addition reduces shelf stability, necessitating emulsifiers like mono- and diglycerides [source: Millstone].
Historically, food producers have tried using fat substitutes such as olestra, but these attempts have largely failed. The undesirable side effects, including issues like anal leakage, led to dismal market performance [source: Center for Science in the Public Interest].
In essence, creating fat-free foods typically involves avoiding the inclusion of fat from the start. The substitutes used vary, but the result is often a highly processed food product that can differ significantly from its original fatty version.
