Where to Apply Highlighter for That Radiant, Inner Glow, According to Professional Makeup Artists

Highlighter is one of those makeup essentials where the line between subtle elegance and excessive glamour is incredibly thin. When applied properly, it can illuminate the high points of your face and capture light just the right way. But with too much product—or the wrong type—you could end up looking like a walking disco ball. That's why we asked beauty professionals to guide us on the best places to apply highlighter, along with additional tips to achieve your perfect glow.

What Exactly Is Highlighter?

Highlighter is a cosmetic product available in various formulas and shades. It can be found in different forms such as powder, cream, liquid, or stick balm. Some highlighters even contain SPF, providing a dual benefit of giving your skin a radiant glow while also shielding it from harmful UV rays.

"Highlighters are a flexible makeup tool that can enhance your look by accentuating the high points of your face and adding depth," says professional makeup artist Tonya Riner. "They bring a luminous effect to areas where light naturally falls, highlighting your bone structure and creating a lifted appearance."

Ideal Areas to Apply Highlighter for Maximum Effect

To get the most out of your highlighter, concentrate on the highest areas of your face where light naturally hits. These include the tops of your cheekbones, the bridge of your nose, your brow bone, and your chin. You can also highlight the inner corners of your eyes and the area above your upper lip for added brightness.

The Cheekbones

To add more structure to your face, apply highlighter to the highest point of your cheekbones, just above where you'd normally apply contour or bronzer. Use a makeup brush or your fingers to sweep the highlighter upwards towards your temples for a soft, glowing effect.

Nose Bridge

For a more sculpted nose, apply highlighter down the bridge of your nose using your finger or a small brush. This creates the illusion of a straighter nose, and you can also add a small amount of highlighter at the tip for a lifted appearance.

Brow Bone

Highlighting beneath the arch of your eyebrows helps lift the eyes. Use your fingers or a small brush to gently apply the highlighter along the brow bone, giving your eyes a brighter and more defined look.

Lightly apply highlighter to the tip of your chin, using your finger or a brush, for a subtle glow that enhances your facial contours and gives the impression of a lifted, more dimensional face.

To create a luminous chin, gently tap highlighter onto the tip with your finger or brush. This delicate touch can add dimension and help lift your overall facial appearance.

Highlighting the cupid's bow can elevate the look of your lips. Apply the highlighter just above your upper lip, at the center, using your finger or a small brush to enhance fullness and definition.

One of the best ways to emphasize your lips is by applying highlighter to the center of your upper lip, or your "cupid's bow". Use your fingertip or a precise brush to create a fuller, more defined lip shape.

A great spot for highlighter is the inner corners of your eyes. This small addition brings light to the area, making your eyes look brighter and more awake.

Highlighting the inner corners of your eyes not only brightens them but also gives the illusion of being more awake. For best results, use a small brush, or gently tap with your pinky or ring finger, as they offer a lighter touch, to apply the highlighter to the corners.

Tips for Keeping Your Highlighter Subtle

Makeup is a deeply personal experience, allowing us to showcase our individuality. While there are times when sparkling like a disco ball is the goal, there are other moments where a more understated approach is what suits us best.

Dominique Lerma, executive makeup artist for MŌDA Brush, says, 'As someone who loves to experiment with makeup both professionally and personally, I'm all for creativity and variety. But if your aim is a subtle highlight that results in a radiant, naturally flushed, angelic look, the key is a less-is-more strategy.'

For a more understated highlighter effect, follow these simple steps.

Step 1: Select the Perfect Highlighter

Opt for a finely milled highlighter rather than one that contains noticeable glitter or shimmer particles. According to Lerma, cream and liquid highlighters offer the most 'natural, radiant, and skin-like finish.'

Step 2: Apply Gently

Using your chosen tool—whether it's a makeup sponge, brush, or your fingers—apply the highlighter in a line or a series of dots on your face.

• For cheekbones, the nose bridge, or brow bone, draw a line of highlighter in these areas.

When applying highlighter to areas like your chin, cupid's bow, or the corners of your eyes, it's more effective to dab small dots for better control.

Be gentle with your application to avoid overdoing it all at once.

Step 3: Apply and Blend the Highlighter

Gradually increase the intensity of the highlighter. As Riner suggests, 'Use a soft touch and build it up slowly to achieve a smooth blend.'

Also, remember to blend the highlighter as you go along. 'The level of glow on your face should be consistent with the rest of your body,' she advises.

Step 4: Correct Any Mistakes

If you happen to over-apply highlighter, celebrity makeup artist Bryan Cantor suggests using a makeup brush or the blender sponge that you used for applying your foundation to gently blend over the areas with too much product. There's no need to reapply foundation; just a small amount will help soften the highlight and balance the effect.

“You can also buff the area using a clean brush to lift away excess product,” he advises. “However, the key to avoiding excess highlighter is to apply it lightly and gradually build up to your preferred level. It’s always easier to add more than to remove once it’s on,” he adds.

Step 5: Seal the Look with Finishing Spray

Use a finishing spray or powder to lock the product in place, preferably one with a radiant or dewy finish rather than a matte one. This will ensure the highlighter stays put longer and can also help control any unwanted shine on your skin.

Common Highlighter Mistakes to Avoid

In addition to following the tips on how and where to apply highlighter, avoid these common pitfalls:

• Steer clear of applying highlighter under your eyes, as it can emphasize texture in that area and appear unflattering, according to Cantor.
• Be careful when applying highlighter over large pores, fine lines, wrinkles, or active breakouts, as Riner suggests. Highlighting these areas can make them stand out more.
• Don’t apply highlighter to the center of your forehead or the sides of your nose. Cantor advises that this can make your face look oily rather than glowing.
• Lerma points out that using a shimmering foundation with a highlighter is a bad combination. This can lead to an overly shiny, disco ball effect.
• Stay away from metallic finishes, as Cantor says they can appear overly artificial and outdated.

How to Find the Right Shade and Formula

According to Cantor, there’s no absolute “right” or “wrong” when it comes to highlighter formulas. Each one has its own distinct effect, so it’s all about choosing a product that matches the look you want and complements your complexion. Feel free to experiment with different formulas to find your favorite. When selecting a highlighter, consider your desired finish, skin type, and skin tone.

Skin Type

For those with oily or combination skin, a powder highlighter is often the best choice, as it provides a buildable, natural glow while helping to keep shine under control. Using a soft, fluffy brush is recommended for the most even application of powder highlighter.

Cream and liquid highlighters are better suited for individuals with normal to dry skin, as they give a dewy, radiant finish. A makeup sponge or even your fingers are ideal tools for applying these types of highlighters. Stick highlighters, with their cream- or balm-like consistency, offer easy blending and are convenient for on-the-go use, making them appropriate for a variety of skin types.

Skin Tone

When selecting a highlighter color, it's important to consider the following factors:

• Fair skin tones: For those with lighter skin, opt for a highlighter with a soft pearly pink or champagne hue to enhance your glow without it appearing too intense.
• Medium skin tones: If your skin has olive undertones, try a highlighter with a golden or peachy base. These warmer shades will harmonize beautifully with the natural undertones of your skin.
• Dark skin tones: For darker complexions, go for a highlighter that features rich undertones like bronze, copper, or deep gold. These shades are ideal for achieving a radiant yet natural glow.

Desired Outcome

For a delicate, soft highlight, avoid products that have large glitter particles. Instead, opt for finely milled highlighters or choose a product that delivers a subtle sheen, possibly with a glossy finish for a more refined effect.