Who were the true Brooks Brothers?

For over two centuries, Brooks Brothers has been a symbol of American formal wear. The brand’s suits have adorned 40 U.S. presidents, supplied uniforms to the military, and helped countless individuals mark major milestones, from attending proms to landing their first job interviews and even getting married.

However, in July 2020, the company filed for bankruptcy, possibly due to the rise in remote work and the growing trend of casual clothing. The name Brooks Brothers is deeply embedded in American fashion history, but the individuals behind the brand remain somewhat of a mystery. Who exactly were the original Brooks Brothers?

The business that would become Brooks Brothers was founded on April 7, 1818, by 45-year-old Henry Sands Brooks and his younger brother, David, under the name H & D. H. Brooks and Co. Before opening their store, Henry had worked as a supplier to traders and seafarers, likely thriving in the seaport of New York City. Their shop was located at the intersection of Catherine and Cherry streets in Lower Manhattan, a thriving retail area known for its collection of clothing shops. It was rumored that Brooks had a keen fashion sense and a bit of a dandy flair.

Henry Sands Brooks passed away in 1833, and the store was inherited by his eldest son, Henry Jr. Upon Henry Jr.'s death in 1850, the business was passed on to his four younger brothers—Daniel, John, Elisha, and Edward. They renamed the business Brooks Brothers, marking the beginning of its distinction. The brothers introduced their iconic logo featuring a sheep hanging by a ribbon, symbolizing the Golden Fleece. This ancient emblem, linked to the Greek myth of Jason and the Argonauts, was historically used by European wool merchants and tailors to signify quality. By adopting this symbol, the Brooks brothers emphasized the high standards of their products and aligned themselves with the elegance of European fashion.

While staying true to its tradition of exceptional quality, the Brooks brothers saw an opportunity to innovate. They pioneered the concept of ready-to-wear suits, making stylish men’s clothing more accessible and affordable for the average American. A June 1850 ad in New York’s Evening Post proclaimed that Brooks Brothers had ‘a large stock of ready-made clothing, suited to the tastes and wants of purchasers.’ The brothers also capitalized on the California Gold Rush by selling ready-made suits to gold miners who had no time to wait for custom-tailored garments.

In the years leading up to the Civil War, business flourished, and the company was indirectly aided by slavery. A significant amount of the cotton used by Brooks Brothers was harvested by enslaved laborers in the South. Additionally, the company produced uniforms for enslaved individuals who worked as household servants.

Due to their experience in garment production, Brooks Brothers secured a significant contract with the Union government at the outset of the Civil War to provide tens of thousands of uniforms for enlisted soldiers. However, a scandal erupted when the uniforms were delivered: it was clear they were poorly made, lacking buttons or buttonholes, and constructed from low-quality fabric that had been glued rather than sewn together. The uniforms disintegrated when exposed to wind and rain. In their rush to fulfill the war contract, Brooks Brothers substituted cheap, flimsy materials in place of the high-quality cloth they were known for—something permitted under the terms written into their contract.

The New York state legislature initiated an investigation, accusing the company of profiteering. When questioned about how much profit they made by downgrading the fabric, Elisha Brooks gave a vague response. “I think that I cannot ascertain the difference without spending more time than I can now devote to that purpose,” Brooks told the lawmakers. In the end, Brooks Brothers agreed to replace 2,350 of the inferior uniforms at the cost of $45,000.

In July 1863, the company's involvement in outfitting the Union Army caused further trouble. As casualties among New York regiments mounted and the war dragged on, working-class New Yorkers protested against the draft. These protests quickly escalated into violent riots marked by racist violence and widespread looting. Brooks Brothers’ Cherry Street store became one of the many targets. Harper’s Weekly reported, ‘a large number of marauders paid a visit to the extensive clothing-store of Messrs. Brooks Brothers … there they helped themselves to such articles as they wanted, after which they might be seen dispersing in all directions, laden with their ill-gotten booty.’

Brooks Brothers' reputation quickly recovered. At his second presidential inauguration in March 1865, Abraham Lincoln wore a greatcoat made by the company, which featured an eagle embroidered on the lining with the motto 'One Country, One Destiny.' Lincoln was still wearing the same coat when he was assassinated at Ford’s Theatre in Washington, D.C. just two weeks later. After his death, Mary Todd Lincoln gave the coat to Alphonse Donn, a doorman at the White House, who kept it until his death. Donn’s family later sold the coat to the United States Capitol Historical Society, where it now resides in the Ford’s Theatre museum's collection.

Brooks Brothers continued to thrive and expand, introducing classic fashions such as the button-down polo shirt in 1896, the sack suit in 1901, and their version of a British regimental tie—the striped rep tie—in 1902.

For more than two centuries, Brooks Brothers has dressed presidents, Wall Street traders, and business leaders, becoming an iconic American brand with global recognition. However, the company’s future is now uncertain.