Buzz
by Sophie Harrington
Cilantro, known as coriander in various parts of the world, has become unexpectedly contentious, evoking strong reactions rarely seen with other herbs. From the online forum at IHateCilantro.com to the “I hate coriander. Worst herb ever” Facebook group, it might just be the most controversial herb in the culinary realm. What makes cilantro cause some people to compare its flavor to soapy pennies, moldy shoes, or cat urine, while others praise its fresh and bright taste?
Though cilantro is favored in numerous global cuisines, it has long been a divisive herb in Western cooking. It contains a particular class of aldehydes—organic compounds that release strong odors when in high concentrations. These aldehydes are likely the cause of the soapy taste and smell many associate with cilantro. However, the same compounds also contribute to the fresh, citrusy fragrance that others adore. So, why is it that some people can't experience the appealing side of cilantro?
Cilantro’s unpopularity isn’t a modern trend. In a 2001 paper, University of Otago anthropologist Helen Leach discovered that cilantro has been regarded as an undesirable herb in European cuisine since the 16th century, frequently criticized for its offensive taste and odor.
Leach proposes that this aversion might have originated from a mistaken understanding of the herb’s name, which comes from the Greek koris, meaning bug. With its resemblance to bedbugs, cilantro may have been linked to their unpleasant scent. This association could have amplified the herb’s unappealing flavors, leading Victorians to reject it.
Cilantro’s role in many non-Western cuisines may have reinforced existing European stereotypes. By equating the herb with foul-smelling bedbugs, numerous non-Western culinary traditions may have been unfairly tarnished. It wasn’t until after World War II, when exploring diverse cuisines became fashionable in both restaurants and home kitchens, that cilantro began to re-enter the Western culinary scene.
A study by Lilli Mauer and Ahmed El-Sohemy at the University of Toronto revealed that 17 percent of Caucasians disliked cilantro, compared to only 4 percent of Hispanics and 3 percent of Middle Eastern individuals. Mexican cuisine, for instance, embraces cilantro fully, and it’s also a key ingredient in many Middle Eastern and South Asian dishes. These groups also appear to be the least likely to find the herb unpleasant. Growing up with cilantro might help people tolerate its more unpleasant flavors and aromas.
This could seem like proof for those who argue that disliking cilantro is just a matter of being picky, but newer studies have found specific genetic differences tied to taste perception. A study by the personal genomics company 23andMe uncovered a small DNA variation in a group of olfactory receptor genes linked to the “soapy” taste some people experience with cilantro. This is likely connected to the OR6A2 gene, a receptor that binds with aldehydes responsible for cilantro’s unique odor. People with a specific variation of this gene may be particularly sensitive to the herb’s soapiness.
Research involving twins has supported the idea that a genetic factor may influence cilantro preference. Early studies by Charles Wysocki at the Monell Chemical Senses Center suggest that 80 percent of identical twins share similar cilantro taste preferences, while only 42 percent of fraternal twins do. If genetics do play a role, it could be that certain cultures are more inclined to use cilantro in their cooking because they are genetically predisposed to enjoy it, rather than developing a taste for it through cultural exposure.
This is at least reassuring news for cilantro-haters, as it means you can’t be blamed for your genetic predisposition. However, it doesn’t make the unpleasantness of accidentally biting into cilantro any easier to bear for those who can’t stand it.
