Buzz
While "anti-aging" products are ubiquitous, many are beginning to challenge the negative implications of that term. There's nothing wrong with wanting to care for our bodies and maintain a youthful appearance, but the idea of fighting against aging can be daunting and unrealistic—after all, we can't reverse time.
What Is Pro-Aging?
Dermatologists emphasize that the best skincare is about prevention, maintaining overall health, and adapting to the evolving needs of your skin. Anti-aging products have thrived thanks to marketing that makes aging feel like a problem to solve. However, this doesn't mean we should discard products like retinol or other anti-aging ingredients, as they serve a purpose. What is shifting is the mindset—skincare experts, dermatologists, and brands are now embracing a "pro-aging" philosophy, supporting the skin’s natural aging process instead of fighting against it.
"Pro-aging represents a much healthier and more positive outlook on aging," says George Baxter-Holder, an aesthetic nurse practitioner at SkinSpirit. "Aging is an inevitable and healthy part of life. By viewing it realistically and positively and supporting the body's natural defenses, we adopt a more modern approach." As this mindset gains traction, experts are turning to less invasive skincare solutions that enhance the organic aging of the skin, working in harmony with the body.
Pro-Aging vs. Anti-Aging
So, what exactly sets pro-aging apart from anti-aging? While neither term has a precise definition, they represent different philosophies in skincare formulation.
In general, anti-aging involves a more aggressive, skin-stimulating approach aimed at halting or reversing the natural aging process. Anti-aging products typically penetrate deeper layers of the skin, reaching the dermal-epidermal junction. Some younger women may find this approach unappealing, missing out on the benefits of its potent ingredients.
"Pro-aging" refers to a gentler, more balanced method. "It’s about working with your body—using hydration, antioxidants, and promoting cell turnover to maintain your skin’s vitality," explains Baxter-Holder. Think of it as a skincare support system or a boost for your skin's health.
"Pro-aging is about making gradual adjustments, reshaping habits as we age, and adopting slow, steady changes that accumulate over time," says Paul Jarrod Frank, MD, board-certified dermatologist in New York City. "The basic pro-aging routine is simple: cleanse, protect, and hydrate."
This philosophy also extends to lifestyle, according to Jami Morse Heidegger, founder of the luxury skincare brand Retrouvé. Our skin mirrors our overall health, meaning that adequate sleep, proper hydration, and healthy eating are just as crucial.
Skincare as Self-Care
"Aging is a natural biological process, not just a cosmetic issue," explains Morse Heidegger. While her brand, Retrouvé, embraces aging through its skincare line, it also champions empowerment. The goal is to inspire individuals of all ages to feel confident and indulge in self-care, regardless of the inevitable aging process.
Cathy Kangas, founder of PRAI Beauty, shares this outlook. "Pro-aging has been the core of PRAI Beauty’s mission for the past 10 years," she says. "I showcase only age-appropriate models, 40 and up, who truly connect with our customers. Our top model is Nancy, and she's 75!"
In the end, pro-aging speaks to a larger conversation. While anti-aging is often seen as erasing the signs of aging—and pro-aging as accepting them—pro-aging also empowers women with the freedom to choose between both. "Pro-aging is about choosing what feels right for your skincare routine and not being bound by societal expectations," says Morse Heidegger. It’s a conscious decision to do what’s best for your skin, based on its needs and desires.
The truth is, the skincare industry often carries an ageist and shame-inducing undertone, but pro-aging offers a way to embrace and care for your skin. "We must break down the societal and self-imposed 'shame barriers' around aging," says Morse Heidegger. Some women may choose to embrace their laugh lines and sagging skin, while others may want to maintain a youthful appearance for as long as possible. Morse Heidegger supports both choices. "I don't believe wanting to look younger should be seen as embarrassing or shameful," she says. "Self-care and skincare at every stage of life are positive acts."
