Buzz
When people think of Japanese fashion, iconic images like the kimono, yukata, or sailor school uniforms often come to mind. However, for many fashion enthusiasts around the globe, Japan’s lesser-known fashion styles and subcultures are gaining greater recognition. These trends emerged at various points throughout the 20th century and continue to influence fashion today. While some Japanese teenagers embraced these looks, seeing them as creative and trendsetting, others viewed them with confusion or amusement.
3. Sukeban
The term 'Sukeban' refers to the female boss of a gang. These girls were known for forming all-female gangs and engaging in acts of violence, including shoplifting. The Sukeban gangs originated in the 1960s and were inspired by the boy gangs called Bancho, who aspired to join the Yakuza. The largest of these gangs, the Kanto Women Delinquent Alliance, boasted around 20,000 members. These gangs often clashed with rival groups, and breaking the strict rules within the Sukeban could result in brutal punishment. For example, cigarette burns were considered a mild penalty. The girls were typically seen wearing custom-embroidered sailor uniforms with pleated skirts that reached the floor.
2. Takenokozoku
The Takenokozoku were pioneers in turning Harajuku into one of the most famous destinations for Japanese street fashion. This style gained popularity in the late 70s and early 80s, featuring neon-colored accessories like beads, whistles, bows, and name tags. The fashion worn by the Takenokozoku was inspired by a store called Takenoko, blending traditional Japanese influences with contemporary trends. Their outfits were often loose and baggy, in bright colors such as hot pink, blue, or purple. They also wore robes adorned with kanji characters and comfortable slippers perfect for dancing. Large groups of Takenokozoku could be seen dancing in the streets of Harajuku, blaring the latest hit songs from their boom boxes.
1. Yanki and Bosozoku
Motorcycle gangs gained popularity in Japan in the early 60s and were dubbed Speed Tribes (Bosozoku). In the 70s, female motorcycle gangs began to form. At one point, police estimated that around 26,000 Japanese individuals were involved in these gangs. By the 80s, the number of male biker groups began to decline, but female biker groups surged in number. Yanki, who were greatly influenced by both Bosozoku and Sukeban, typically wore sarashi (white cloth wrapped around the chest), embroidered tokko fukku robes, and gauze masks. Additionally, Bosozoku members were known for their customized scooters.
4. Ko Gal
The term 'Gal' has been used in Japan since the 80s to describe a girl with a passion for trendy fashion. The term 'Ko Gal' emerged in the 90s when the media coined it to describe a middle school girl who made $4000 a month through paid dating with older men. 'Ko' is derived from the Japanese word for child, 'kodomo.' Ko Gals strived to appear as youthful as possible, adorning themselves with the cutest accessories they could find. They altered their school uniforms by shortening their skirts, tanned their skin, and bleached their hair. Naturally, they also wore the iconic loose socks, often secured with sock glue. While some Ko Gals in Shibuya engaged in enjo kosai (paid dating), it wasn’t as widespread as the media portrayed. As this style spread from Tokyo across Japan, Kogal movies, magazines, and TV shows gained popularity. Ko Gals were almost always seen with their phones and were among the first young people in Japan to embrace technology. Over time, Ko Gal fashion evolved into current trends, such as Hime (princess) Gal, which involves wearing expensive, pink, frilly brand-name clothing.
5. Ganguro
While Ko Gals had a naturally tanned look, Ganguro girls took the trend even further by tanning their skin weekly. They would apply foundations specifically designed for black women, and 'Ganguro,' which translates to 'Black Face,' reflected their bold appearance. In addition to the dark skin, the Ganguro style included platform shoes, short dresses, bleached hair, black eyeliner, blue contact lenses, and white lipstick. A popular Gal magazine, Egg, featured Buriteri, one of the most famous Ganguro girls, on its cover. The trend was particularly embraced by Shibuya's youth, although they often faced public scorn or harassment. By late 2001, the trend faded, and tanning salons began to shut down.
6. Manba
The Manba style, which still persists today, shares a lot in common with Ganguro. Its name is derived from Yamanba, a character in Japanese folklore (a term used by the media for Ganguro). Due to the harmful effects of excessive tanning, many Manba girls opt for dark foundation instead. Manba girls often engage in Para Para, a type of fast-paced synchronized dancing to techno beats. These groups, known as Gal Circles, have various names, with Angeleek being the most popular. Boys who frequented Manba clubs adopted their own version of the look, becoming known as Center Guys after Shibuya’s Center Street. The Manba style is all about bold, bright, and trendy clothes. Their makeup includes stark white lips and large white circles around the eyes, with face decals and rainbow-colored hair extensions completing the look.
7. Kigurumin
Kigurumin was a quirky and brief fashion trend that lasted from 2003 to 2004. It was popular among girls in Shibuya who wanted to dress comfortably yet stand out. They started wearing inexpensive animal-themed costumes, typically found in the party section of stores. Outfits included characters like Pikachu, Hamtaro, and Winnie the Pooh. Alongside these costumes, Kigurumin girls accessorized with animal-themed purses, cute trinkets, and often applied Manba-inspired makeup.
10. Decora
Decora is a trendy Japanese street fashion that has gained significant popularity. It all began in 1997 when the FRUiTS magazine was established to showcase photos of Japanese street style. Aki Kobayashi, the cover model for the debut issue, contributed columns about her personal style and how she crafted her own accessories. As a result, girls started designing their own unique and eccentric accessories. This led to the birth of the Decora style, with followers trading and selling their creations in Harajuku. While every Decora outfit is distinct, they share a common theme of being brightly colored, decorative, and cute. The style is characterized by an abundance of plastic accessories, barrettes, neon skirts, colorful socks, and adorable character products.
9. Lolita
Lolita has emerged as one of the most popular subcultures in Japan, and its influence has spread globally. Many well-known Lolita brands, including Baby the Stars Shine Bright, Metamorphose, and Angelic Pretty, have contributed to the trend. This style began to rise in the late 90s and, similar to the Nagomu style, was influenced by music. The rise of Gothic record labels in Japan gave birth to visual kei music, which inspired the Gothic Lolita look. Visual kei refers to bands that wear dramatic makeup and costumes. The Lolita aesthetic is also influenced by Rococo-period fashion. The term itself was coined by Mana of the visual kei band Malice Mizer, who named his clothing line Elegant Gothic Lolita. The Gothic and Lolita Bible, a widely circulated magazine, was launched in 2001. There are various types of Lolita fashion, including Gothic Lolita, which is primarily black and frilled; Sweet Lolita, which uses pastels, lace, and bows; Punk Lolita, combining plaid and chains with frills; and Wa Lolita, which incorporates traditional Japanese garments like kimonos. Popular accessories include bonnets, headdresses, rocking horse shoes, parasols, petticoats, and frilled knee socks.
8. Nagomu Gal
Nagomu was an independent record label founded in 1983, which quickly attracted a dedicated following. The term 'Nagomu Gals' was first coined in the Takarajima magazine to describe the label's fans. These Nagomu Gals had a distinctive style, often wearing vintage clothes, long-sleeved t-shirts, thick-soled rubber shoes, and knee-high socks. While the term 'Nagomu Gal' wasn't always used positively, with some considering them to be overly enthusiastic fan girls, it captured their unique fashion and subculture. Unfortunately, the Nagomu label came to an end in 1989.
