Buzz
Cuisine. The most esteemed of all human endeavors.
From the lavish banquets of ancient rulers to the quick-service eateries of contemporary America, the pleasure of food has always played a central role in our existence. Even amidst their struggles, our forebears managed to transform everyday ingredients into mouthwatering delicacies.
Discover 10 of the most intriguing ancient foods, including one that could prove fatal for individuals lacking a specific enzyme in their system.
10. Maccu
Potentially a dish Hannibal Lecter would relish, maccu is an ancient Roman recipe centered around mashed fava beans. Originating in Sicily, this dish gained popularity after the Sicilians became part of the Roman Empire. Renowned as exceptional chefs within the empire, the Sicilians adopted fava beans at an uncertain point in history.
To prepare this dish, fava beans were simmered with various herbs and spices, enhanced with olive oil, and served as a hearty soup. Any leftovers were often left to solidify, then consumed as a snack. Occasionally, they were sliced, coated in flour, fried, and enjoyed once more. While rare in modern Sicily, a few eateries still offer this traditional fare, evoking memories of bygone eras.
However, fava beans pose a risk to individuals deficient in the enzyme glucose-6-phosphate dehydrogenase. For those lacking this enzyme, the toxins in fava beans can destroy red blood cells, leading to severe illness or even death. This uncommon genetic condition is more prevalent in the Mediterranean region than in the US.
9. Moretum
Remaining in ancient Rome, moretum was a type of cheese spread commonly used by Roman peasants to enhance their bread. The renowned poet Virgil, famous for his epic Aeneid, also curated a collection of poems known as Appendix Vergiliana. (While ancient sources attributed most of these works to Virgil, it’s more probable that he compiled poems written by others.)
One of these poems, titled “Moretum,” delves into this dish. It describes a peasant gathering ingredients like garlic, herbs, and butter from his land, preparing the meal while conversing and singing with his slave.
A popular variation of this dish included pine nuts, bearing a striking resemblance to today’s pesto. The name moretum derives from the process of grinding all the ingredients together in a mortar, making the name a fitting choice.
8. Shrikhand
The name shrikhand originates from the Sanskrit term for “milk” (ksheer) and the Persian word for “sweet” (qand). This dessert, crafted from fermented milk, has ancient roots in western India, though its precise beginnings remain shrouded in history.
Legend has it that nomadic herdsmen would hang curd or yogurt overnight, allowing it to thicken.
Today, shrikhand is predominantly enjoyed in India, often served as a breakfast item in the North and as a dessert in the South. The preparation involves heating milk, cooling it to room temperature, and introducing a culture to form a firm curd. The curd is then strained to eliminate whey and blended with various flavorings.
7. Tamales
A deeply traditional Mesoamerican dish, tamales have been prepared since at least 1500 BC, with some evidence suggesting their existence as far back as 8000 BC.
The term originates from the Nahuatl word for “wrapped food” (tamalii), with the correct singular form being tamal. (In English, it’s often spelled and pronounced “tamale.”) Historically, the Maya crafted these cornmeal treats both filled and unfilled, using ingredients like fish, beans, and eggs.
Aztec tamales were quite similar, as described by Bernardino de Sahagun, a Spanish priest who documented his experiences in the New World after the Aztec conquest. (They even had sweet tamales filled with fruit or honey.)
Tamales, particularly those made with ground amaranth, held religious significance due to their use as offerings to deities. This led the Catholic Church to ban both tamales and amaranth, with execution being the likely penalty for those caught preparing them.
The wrapping, essential for steaming, is typically made from corn husks, though banana leaves are more common in tropical regions.
6. ‘Black Soup’
The Spartans of ancient Greece are known for creating one of history’s most infamous dishes: “black soup” (melas zomos). This traditional broth, consumed by soldiers, was made from boiled pigs’ blood, pork, and vinegar. While some claim the Spartans relished it, others argue it was eaten purely for survival, fitting their reputation as warriors. The soup was so notorious that even contemporaries found it revolting.
One story tells of an Italian who, after tasting it, remarked that he now understood why Spartans were so eager to die in battle if this was their sustenance. Another tale involves a Pontic king who, curious about the soup, had a Spartan chef prepare it. After barely tasting it, he was horrified. The chef quipped that the king should have bathed in a Spartan river first, suggesting only a true Spartan could appreciate it.
Today, no exact recipe survives, though similar blood-based soups are still enjoyed in various parts of the world.
5. Acquacotta
Acquacotta, a humble peasant dish, originated in the coastal region of Maremma in western Italy. Its name translates to “cooked water,” reflecting its simplicity as a basic soup. Farmers and laborers would forage for wild herbs and vegetables, combining them with stale, unsalted bread to create a nourishing meal. The bread softened in the soup, making it palatable.
Wealthier versions of acquacotta included a poached egg, cooked by the soup’s heat. The dish’s origins are steeped in folklore, with tales resembling the legend of stone soup. One story tells of a poor individual who convinced others to contribute ingredients to a pot of water and a stone, resulting in a flavorful soup that everyone enjoyed.
4. Tharida
Tharida (or tharid) is an ancient Arab soup that traces its origins to the era of Muhammad. Developed by the Ghassanids, this dish blends stewed meat with broth and hand-crumbled bread crumbs, creating a hearty and flavorful meal.
Despite being Arab, the Ghassanids remained Christians until their kingdom was absorbed. However, tharida’s appeal crossed religious boundaries, gaining widespread popularity among Muslim Arabs.
Muhammad famously likened tharida to his beloved wife, Aisha, stating that the dish outshone all others, just as Aisha surpassed all women. His fondness for tharida helped it become one of the few Arab dishes to achieve global reach, with variations appearing from Morocco to China.
Each culture that adopted tharida added its own twist, resulting in hundreds of versions today. (For example, Moorish Spain incorporated eggplants into their rendition.)
3. Harissa
Distinct from the Tunisian hot sauce sharing its name, harissa is a traditional Armenian porridge. Often served during festivals and religious observances, this hearty dish is made from wheat and either chicken or lamb.
During meat-free fasts, herbs replace the meat. Preparing harissa is labor-intensive, requiring slow cooking and continuous stirring. This effort contributes to its cherished status in Armenian culture, symbolizing dedication and care.
Legend attributes the dish’s name to Gregory the Illuminator, Armenia’s patron saint. Faced with insufficient sheep to feed a crowd, he instructed wheat to be added to the pot. When it began to stick, he exclaimed, “Harekh!” (“Stir it!”)
For many years, harissa was a customary dish distributed to the less fortunate by Armenian churches.
2. Papadzules
A pre-Columbian dish resembling enchiladas, papadzules originates from the Yucatan Peninsula. Created by the Maya, it features corn tortillas dipped in a pumpkin seed sauce (other squash varieties can also be used). The tortillas are filled with chopped hard-boiled eggs, rolled, and covered in tomato sauce.
Modern papadzules are often adorned with droplets of squash or pumpkin oil. Debate persists over whether the Maya could achieve this effect without advanced technology. (They likely used alternative oils for similar results.)
The name is said to mean “food for the lords,” with papadzules being served to Spanish conquistadors who met the Maya. (Alternatively, some claim the name comes from Mayan words meaning “food” and “love.”)
1. Cantal Cheese
Originating during the Gauls’ rule, Cantal cheese is one of France’s oldest cheeses. This semihard variety, locally called fourme, was mentioned by Gregory of Tours, a renowned French historian. He described an ancient pagan ritual where offerings, including cheese, were thrown into a mountain lake.
Pliny the Elder, the Roman author, also referenced this cheese in the first century AD. He praised cheese from Nimes, a southern French city, much to the dismay of Roman cheesemakers.
Cantal cheese has remained largely unchanged over the centuries, gaining prominence during the reign of Louis XIV. Modern versions are sold younger and with less salt compared to their traditional counterparts.
