21 Efforts to Capture the Flavor of Durian, the Planet's Most Odorous Fruit

In Malaysia, Singapore, and various Southeast Asian regions, durian is a cherished treat. Its rich, creamy texture and intense aroma require an acquired taste. The fruit's overpowering scent is so strong that Singapore’s public transportation systems prohibit passengers from carrying it on subways or buses.

Despite its notorious smell, durian is ubiquitous, appearing in dishes ranging from curries and desserts to ice cream. For newcomers, tasting durian can be a perplexing and paradoxical encounter. Below are historical perspectives from outsiders over the last four centuries.

1. “Nothing we have comes close to it”

In 1662, Jacques de Bourges, a missionary stationed in Ayutthaya, Thailand (formerly Siam), described durian as having “snow-white flesh, surpassing all the finest fruits of Europe in delicacy, with none of ours coming close to it.”

2. “Rancid vomit”

As noted in The Oxford Companion to Food, “Its scent has been likened to that of a civet cat, sewage, rancid vomit, onions, and cheese. One disillusioned traveler to Indonesia even claimed that eating durian was akin to consuming used surgical gauze.”

3. “Richly musky”

Frommer’s Guide to Malaysia describes durian as “a sizable green fruit covered in spikes, which, when opened, emits an odor worse than aged athletic shoes. ... For the curious, its creamy texture offers a mildly sweet and richly musky flavor.”

4. “Pig excrement”

Food critic Richard Sterling once remarked, “Its aroma is a mix of pig excrement, turpentine, and onions, topped off with the scent of a sweaty gym sock. The smell can be detected from a considerable distance.”

5. “A surrender of dignity”

As described by 19th-century journalist Bayard Taylor, durian is “initially the most unbearable of all fruits, yet those who overcome their initial aversion find it ultimately indispensable. When first presented, you demand its removal; if durians are nearby, sleep becomes impossible. Chloride of lime and disinfectants appear to be the only remedies. Consuming it feels like a loss of dignity, but endure it briefly, with nostrils closed, taste it once or twice, and you’ll crave durians forever—even, I hesitate to admit, over the magnificent [mangosteen].”

6. “Like a heap of deceased felines”

“To those unaccustomed to durian, its scent resembles a pile of dead cats,” remarked Bangkok-based culinary expert Bob Halliday. “However, as you grow to appreciate it, the odor becomes far from repulsive. It becomes enticing, even mouthwatering, like a mastiff salivating over a treat.”

7. “Custard with a hint of vomit”

The Rough Guide to Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei notes that some have likened durian’s flavor to something akin to “custard with a hint of vomit.”

8. “Spoiled eggs”

Culinary expert Robb Walsh, known for exploring exotic foods, shared his durian encounter: “The stench of spoiled eggs is overpowering. I fought back a gag reflex as I took my first bite.”

9. “Surpassed all culinary excellence in heaven and earth”

“Like nature’s finest offerings … durian defies description,” Australian naturalist Edmund J. Banfield recalled a friend saying. “It serves as both sustenance and an unparalleled delicacy, allowing you to indulge without regret. It’s nature’s masterpiece, outshining all CORDON BLEUE [sic] creations from heaven and earth.”

10. “A hint of sewer gas”

Anthropologist Maxine E. McBrinn noted that durian carries a “hint of sewer gas in its aroma.”

11. “Similar to strong, gooey French cheese”

Anthony Bourdain, the celebrated chef and host of Parts Unknown, once remarked that durian’s flavor resembled “strong, gooey French cheese,” adding, “Your breath will reek as if you’ve been kissing your deceased grandmother.”

12. “Resembling the decaying flesh of an animal”

“Initially, it tasted like the rotting flesh of an animal, but after several attempts, I found its aroma delightful,” wrote French naturalist Henri Mouhot in Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China: Siam, Cambodia, and Laos, During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860.

13. “Like enjoying ice cream in a latrine”

In his book Strange Foods, Jerry Hopkins mentions that some have likened eating durian to “savoring ice cream in a latrine.”

14. “Nothing I’ve tasted has been more delightful”

“I must admit, I’ve never encountered anything more delectable,” wrote Italian explorer Giovanni Battista Cerruti in his 1908 work My Friends the Savages. “However, not everyone can appreciate this peculiar fruit due to its repugnant odor, which can induce nausea in those with sensitive stomachs. Picture a pile of decaying onions beneath your nose, and you’ll only have a faint sense of the unbearable stench emitted by these trees. When the fruit is opened, the offensive smell intensifies.”

15. “Like entirely spoiled, mushy onions”

“It tastes like entirely spoiled, mushy onions,” remarked culinary personality Andrew Zimmern about durian. “This is too overwhelming for me.” He promptly spat it out.

16. “Like savoring sweet raspberry blancmange in a restroom”

A Clockwork Orange author Anthony Burgess likened eating durian to “enjoying sweet raspberry blancmange in a lavatory.”

17. “Intermittent hints of flavor reminiscent of cream cheese”

Alfred Russel Wallace—the 19th-century British naturalist who independently conceived the theory of natural selection alongside Darwin—described durian as, “A rich, almond-flavored custard best captures its essence, though occasional notes evoke cream cheese, onion sauce, sherry wine, and other unexpected flavors.”

18. “You will either be captivated ... or outright repulsed”

“You will either be utterly captivated, entranced by its bold, commanding essence, or you’ll reject it entirely,” wrote Guardian journalist Monica Tan about the fruit. “And flee in horror.”

19. “Decaying flesh in custard”

A “Governor of the Straits” cited in the 1903 work Hobson-Jobson: A glossary of colloquial Anglo-Indian words and phrases, and of kindred terms, etymological, historical, geographical and discursive remarked that durian resembled “decaying flesh in custard.”

20. “A blend of onions, garlic, avocado, and pineapple”

“It’s a mix of onions, garlic, avocado, and pineapple, all in a creamy custard,” actress Jessica Chastain explained to late-night host Jimmy Kimmel. She adores the fruit so much that she once smuggled it into her hotel while filming in Thailand, despite it being against the rules.

21. “It stands alone among fruits”

“Admittedly, its ripe aroma can resemble that of a decaying animal, and its spiky exterior evokes a medieval weapon,” wrote New York Times journalist Thomas Fuller about the fruit. “But delve into its pale yellow, creamy flesh, and you’ll uncover hints of hazelnut, apricot, caramelized banana, and custard. This is my best effort to describe durian, yet words fall short—it is truly unparalleled in the world of fruits.”