A Rich History of Fried Doughnuts

Tracing the history of doughnuts is no easy feat. Did it all start when someone first fried sweet dough in oil? Or was it when the iconic hole was first made in a yeasted dough before it was fried? And where do oil balls fit into the story? Doughnuts (or donuts, depending on your preference) are a fascinating blend of international fried dough traditions with a distinctly American touch. Keep reading to uncover the origins of the doughnut, the role of Doughnut Lassies in World War I, and other intriguing historical facts, all adapted from an episode of Food History on YouTube.

Fried Dough and the Birth of the Doughnut

Humans have been frying dough for millennia. One of the earliest mentions of frying dough appears in the Bible, in Leviticus. A verse refers to cakes made with fine flour and oil as a suitable offering to God. The ancient Greeks and Romans savored fried cakes drizzled with honey, and various versions of this sweet treat spread throughout Europe over time.

The challenge of tracing the doughnut's origin lies in the many possible beginnings, especially due to its deliciously fried nature. Traditionally, the dish is linked to Dutch cuisine. Dutch immigrants who arrived in New York City, once New Amsterdam, brought along their culinary traditions, including one beloved recipe: olykoeks, or oil cakes. These were made by frying dough lumps in pork fat. They were also called oliebollen, or 'oil balls' in English. The earliest mention of oil balls in connection with doughnuts appears in Washington Irving’s 1809 book, A History of New York, from the Beginning of the World to the End of the Dutch Dynasty. The Sleepy Hollow author described 'balls of sweetened dough, fried in hog’s fat, and called doughnuts, or olykoeks.'

While many food historians agree on the Dutch origins of the American doughnut, not everyone is convinced. Some believe that doughnuts have their roots in English fried dough. It’s possible that the doughnut is a delightful fusion of English, Dutch, and German fried dough traditions. (No matter the true origins, it's probably good that we stopped calling them oil balls.)

The ring-shaped doughnut that we know and love today may not have appeared until 1847. According to an American sailor named Hanson Gregory, he invented the now-famous hole in the doughnut.

As Gregory recounts, doughnuts of his time were solid lumps of dough, and although the outside was crispy, the inside remained raw. At age 16, while working aboard a lime-trading schooner, he came up with the idea to remove the center of the doughnut entirely. Using the lid of a tin pepper box, he 'cut into the middle of that donut the first hole ever seen by mortal eyes,' as he later recounted in an interview with the Washington Post, almost 70 years later.

When Gregory returned to Maine, he demonstrated his new doughnut method to his mother. Her ring-shaped doughnuts quickly became a local hit, and from that moment on, the world of deep-fried pastries was forever changed.

The origin of the word 'Doughnut' is quite interesting. The first part, 'dough,' is self-explanatory, but the 'nut' part has intrigued linguists for years. Some believe it refers to the original small, round shape of the treat, resembling a nut before it evolved into its modern hole-in-the-middle form. Others think it could be a nod to the addition of nuts, such as almonds or pecans, used in early doughnuts to prevent the dough from being undercooked. Despite the changes over time, the name stuck and became a defining part of the snack’s identity.

The 'nut' in 'doughnut' has puzzled linguists for some time. Early versions of the snack were small, round, and resembled nuts in shape, which might explain the term's origin. However, another plausible theory suggests that the 'nut' refers to the addition of culinary nuts, such as almonds or pecans, that were used in the dough during its early preparation. This practice helped cook the dough evenly in the hot oil, a technique that was phased out as ring-shaped doughnuts became more popular.

Over time, the term 'doughnut' evolved as well. By the early 1900s, many shops began shortening the name to 'donut,' a more concise form that eventually gained widespread acceptance. In fact, it wasn't until around 1950 that the simpler version of the word began gaining traction, coinciding with the opening of the first Dunkin’ Donuts in Quincy, Massachusetts. With the company's success, the abbreviated form of the word saw a rise in usage, although the classic 'doughnut' may be making a comeback now that Dunkin' has dropped the 'Donuts' from its brand name.

World War I played a pivotal role in shaping the history of doughnuts in America. While the snack was not initially widespread in the country, its connection with the war helped solidify its place in American culture. The Salvation Army's efforts to provide comfort to soldiers with fried dough treats marked the beginning of the doughnut’s transformation from a regional specialty to a national favorite.

By 2020, there were over 18,000 doughnut shops operating across the United States, but the journey to this point wasn’t always easy for the beloved snack. Throughout the 19th century, doughnuts were primarily seen as a northern food, especially associated with the Yankee culture. It wasn’t until the 1910s, after their exposure to American soldiers in Europe during World War I, that doughnuts became the widely loved treat they are today.

In World War I, the Salvation Army sent 250 volunteers to France to provide vital supplies and snacks to U.S. soldiers. Initially, they planned to bake cakes and pies for the troops. However, as they got closer to the front lines, finding ovens became a challenge. Resourceful and determined, they switched to frying doughnuts in pans over an open fire, making the best of their situation and offering soldiers a small taste of home in the form of fresh doughnuts.

The Salvation Army volunteers had everything they needed to make doughnuts, including the right ingredients and equipment to fry them. When it came time to shape these sweet treats, they improvised with what they had available. They rolled out the dough using juice bottles and shell casings, cut the dough with empty baking powder cans, and punched out the holes using a broken coffeemaker part. The volunteers, later known as the 'Doughnut Lassies,' were so devoted that they risked their lives to serve the troops. In her book, *The War Romance Of The Salvation Army*, Evangeline Booth recounts a volunteer’s fierce determination: when told to stop serving doughnuts during enemy fire, the volunteer replied, 'Colonel, we can die with the men, but we cannot leave them.' Evangeline Booth, the daughter of the Salvation Army’s founders, went on to become its general.

During World War I, soldiers developed a fondness for fried dough, and when they returned home, they brought this new taste with them. This connection between doughnuts and the military helped secure the snack's place in American cuisine. The simplicity and affordability of doughnut ingredients made them an accessible treat during tough times, and making doughnuts was seen as a patriotic act. The National World War I Museum and Memorial in Kansas City, Missouri, notes that Crisco even published recipes for wartime doughnuts that substituted their vegetable shortening for valuable lard.

The Doughnut Lassies are also responsible for the creation of two National Doughnut Days. In 1938, the Salvation Army declared the first Friday in June as National Doughnut Day to promote its charitable work. A second National Doughnut Day is observed on November 5, though its origins are less clear. Some believe the date was chosen because it is close to Veterans Day on November 11, linking the celebration to the military. Or perhaps it was just another reason to indulge in fried dough.

The doughnut scene in the U.S. and worldwide reveals fascinating regional differences. While Dunkin’ has held a strong presence on the East Coast for many years, its popularity never quite reached the West Coast. This gap allowed smaller doughnut shops in California to flourish, and an entrepreneur named Ted Ngoy took full advantage of this opportunity to create a legacy.

Ted Ngoy arrived in Southern California as a refugee from Cambodia in 1975. His first taste of a doughnut reminded him of *nom kong*, the round, fried pastries from street vendors in his homeland. This connection sparked his decision to make doughnuts his livelihood. He trained at Winchell’s, eventually took over his own store, and later purchased Christy’s, another doughnut shop. Under Ngoy’s leadership, Christy’s grew into a thriving local chain. He leased his stores to other Cambodian refugees, helping them start their own businesses by offering housing, loans, and support.

Ngoy’s decision to assist other refugees wasn’t just an act of kindness—it also turned out to be a brilliant business move. By 1985, Ngoy owned around 60 doughnut shops and had earned millions from his expanding empire. His success also gave other Cambodian refugees the opportunity to own businesses and establish financial independence in their new country.

Ted Ngoy’s influence on the doughnut industry remains strong today. Many of Southern California’s independent doughnut shops are still owned by Cambodian immigrants and their descendants. Ngoy is also credited with popularizing the iconic pink doughnut boxes. In a 2017 interview with the *Los Angeles Times*, Ngoy explained that he or his business partner, Ning Yen, had chosen the pink color early on as a cost-effective alternative to the standard white boxes. Westco, their supplier, offered them pink boxes at a discounted rate, and over time, customers became accustomed to the distinct pink packaging.

Ted Ngoy’s legacy in the doughnut industry is undeniable. His entrepreneurial success helped shape Southern California’s doughnut culture, and his decision to use pink boxes became a lasting trademark. Today, many of the region’s doughnut shops are still owned by Cambodian immigrants and their descendants, further cementing his impact on the local industry.

Although ring-shaped doughnuts are a uniquely American creation, fried, sweet dough is enjoyed all over the world. In Israel, it's estimated that over 15 million jelly-filled doughnuts known as sufganiyot are consumed during the weeks surrounding Hanukkah. In China, people savor crispy, golden sticks called *youtiao*. Churros are widely enjoyed in many countries, and in France, light dough fritters called *pets de nonne*, or 'nun’s farts', are a popular treat. Suddenly, oily dough balls don’t seem so bad after all.