Buzz
In Mumbai, during Ramadan — known as Ramzan in parts of South Asia — a historic street near Minara Masjid transforms into a vibrant food festival every evening. As the sun sets, vendors from across the city gather to serve barbecue and sweet treats to Muslims breaking their fast. This lively area, known as khau galli or 'eat street,' welcomes people from all walks of life. Renowned local photographer Hashim Badani, who has been attending this festival for years, captured the dynamic atmosphere for Dinogo.
The monsoon season is here, and with it comes the humidity in Mumbai. 'I was drenched either way,' Badani recalls from the shoot. The street is packed with food lovers and Ramadan participants, continuously flowing like rush-hour trains. 'You can't just stand still at khau galli,' Badani says. 'You eat all this heavy food, but by the time you leave, the sweat takes it all out.'
While savory treats like chicken tikka and goat brain masala are in abundance, it's the desserts that truly captivate the crowd. Some of these delicacies are only available during Ramadan, making them a special attraction. At khau galli, people enjoy phirni, a rice pudding served in clay pots, deep-fried malpua pancakes soaked in syrup, and mawa jalebi, delicate swirls of fried dough drenched in sweetness.
As Badani snapped photos of the bustling street, the vendors happily posed for the camera, offering complimentary sweets and quickly resuming their work to keep the flow of customers moving. According to Badani, many of these vendors make as much money in one night at the festival as they would in the next six months.
The market stays alive until dawn, after the street vendors have served meals to post-work Mytours, late-night revelers, and Muslims grabbing a bite before their early morning prayers. During Ramadan, this part of the city, typically overlooked by most, becomes the gathering place for the khau galli. Badani finds it heartwarming to witness Mumbai's diverse community uniting through food.
Hashim Badani is a photographer based in Mumbai.
