During Ramadan, Mumbai’s famous khau galli, a historic street near Minara Masjid, transforms into a bustling food market at sunset. Every evening, street vendors from across the city offer barbecued dishes and sweets to those breaking their fast. This vibrant food festival, named after the local term for 'eat street,' invites everyone to join in. Longtime photographer Hashim Badani has captured this lively tradition for Dinogo.
As Mumbai enters the monsoon season, humidity fills the air. 'I was soaked either way,' says Badani, reflecting on his experience shooting the festival. The street is packed with people moving like a rush-hour train, as crowds of food enthusiasts and Ramadan observers fill the area. 'There’s no standing still at khau galli. You’re eating rich foods, but the sweat makes it all disappear by the time you leave,' Badani adds.
While meat dishes like chicken tikka and goat brain masala are abundant, the real highlight of khau galli is the sweets. Badani shares that some of these desserts, like phirni (a rice pudding served in clay pots), deep-fried malpua pancakes soaked in syrup, and mawa jalebi (crispy swirls of sweet dough), are available only during this festive period.
As Badani captured the hustle and bustle of the scene, vendors eagerly greeted the camera, offering free treats and briefly pausing to keep the flow of customers moving. Many of these street vendors earn more in one night at the festival than they would in the next six months, Badani reveals.
The khau galli market stays open until the early hours, serving late-night revelers, post-work diners, and Muslims enjoying a meal before the pre-dawn prayers. During Ramadan, this area, usually less frequented, becomes a gathering spot for a diverse crowd, a sight Badani finds heartwarming as people from all walks of life come together to share food.
Hashim Badani is a photographer based in Mumbai.
