
The centerpiece of Thanksgiving decorations is the unassuming cornucopia: a horn with a wide mouth spilling over with the abundance of a fruitful harvest. While today it’s as quintessentially American as Thanksgiving itself, its origins lie elsewhere.
The Rise of Baby Zeus
In Greek mythology, the Titan king Kronos fears being overthrown by his own children, so he devours each one as they are born. However, his wife (and sister) Rhea manages to save their son Zeus by having him secretly raised by the nurturing Amalthea on the island of Crete.
'The Nurture of Jupiter' (the Roman equivalent of Zeus) by Nicolas Poussin, circa 1636. | Dulwich Picture Gallery, Wikimedia Commons // Public DomainAmalthea is often depicted as either a goat or a water nymph with access to goats, depending on the version of the myth you read. Regardless, baby Zeus is raised on goat’s milk. In some versions of the story, Zeus either breaks off one of the goat's horns as a gift to the goat, or the goat breaks off her own horn to offer to Zeus. This horn is then filled with fruit (and sometimes flowers or herbs), either by Zeus's divine power or by Amalthea's hand. In some tellings, Zeus’s power ensures the horn will never run dry. The specifics may vary, but the central idea remains that Zeus was the creator, directly or indirectly, of the first cornucopia, which originated from a goat.
At least according to that legend. The ancient Romans had their own version of the origin story involving Hercules. In Book 9 of Ovid’s Metamorphoses, the river god Achelous recounts how he transformed into a bull during a battle with Hercules, who then tore off one of his horns. 'Grasping one of my horns in his brutal hand, he broke it, tough as it was, and tore it away from my forehead, leaving me maimed,' Achelous says. 'The naiads filled the horn with fruit and fragrant flowers, and, thus made sacred, it became the symbol of the Spirit of Plenty.'
An engraving titled 'Hercules and Achelous' by 16th-century Italian artist Il Pordenone. | Chris Hellier/GettyImagesOnce Achelous finishes recounting his tale, one of his nymph servants appears, as Ovid describes: 'displaying the Horn of Plenty and bringing all the finest fruits of autumn to serve the guests as the second course.' The term cornucopia originates from Latin: Cornū cōpiae, which translates to 'horn of plenty.'
The cornucopia wasn’t limited to its original myth. A variety of deities associated with agriculture or abundance have been shown with it, including the Greek goddess of harvest, Demeter (sister of Zeus) and her Roman counterpart, Ceres; as well as the Greek goddess of fortune, Tyche, and her Roman counterpart, Fortuna.
Over time, Americans adopted the symbol as well.
A Bounty of Cornucopias
The origin of the cornucopia in Thanksgiving decorations remains uncertain; references to it can be traced back at least as far as the 1870s.
A newspaper correspondent wrote in 1875 about a Presbyterian service in Santa Barbara, California: “Beneath the speaker’s platform lay a vast cornucopia, spilling forth melons, apples, peaches, pears, oranges, lemons, limes, and olives. This grand ‘Horn of Plenty’ was framed by bundles of grain, with feathery pampas grass woven throughout.”
A Thanksgiving greeting card from the early 1900s. | Samantha Vuignier/GettyImagesIn the early 20th century, columnists penned guides for crafting homemade cornucopia centerpieces using wire wrapped in linen, wrapping paper, and even silk. In 1913, Vermont’s St. Johnsbury Republican wrote: “The cornucopia, a symbol of abundance used by the Greeks and Romans, is a perfect emblem for the spirit of Thanksgiving. Its contents should spill over the horn, with fruits and flowers flowing across the table.”
By the 1930s, the cornucopia had become so closely linked with Thanksgiving that people began to think beyond the traditional. In 1930, the Chronicle Tribune of Marion, Indiana, published a recipe for ‘cornucopia sandwiches,’ which involved rolling de-crusted bread and smoked sturgeon into fan-shaped cones and inserting small sprigs of parsley into each one. “Other fillings like creamed mushrooms, olive and cheese, creamed chicken, or lobster—any tasty moist filling—makes the Cornucopia sandwich a treat,” wrote the recipe’s creator. A similar recipe from 1940 called for rolling pastry dough into cones, baking them, and filling them with candied cranberries.
The mid-20th century witnessed extravagant cornucopias filled with oversized fake fruit (“The bananas are six feet long, and the apples are two and a half feet wide!”); smaller edible ones made from chilled lettuce leaves; and a variety of styles ranging from wicker to gold ceramic. The Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade has played a significant role in maintaining the tradition of colossal cornucopias in modern times, while today, instructions for crafting cornucopia appetizers from things like ice cream cones and candy are just a search away on the internet.
In short, Americans have been competing to create the most impressive cornucopia displays for decades—but it’s tough to rival the divine touch of the gods.
