The Global Journey of Dumplings

One popular legend traces the origins of dumplings back to the Han Dynasty, over 1800 years ago. The story tells of a physician named Zhang Zhongjing, who, upon returning to his village during a harsh winter, found his neighbors suffering from frostbite. In response, he crafted a new dish using mutton, herbs, and spices known for their warming and healing qualities. He wrapped the ingredients in dough, shaping them to look like small ears, possibly for their symbolic connection to healing. While the authenticity of this tale remains uncertain, it contributes to the mythos surrounding the invention of dumplings.

While the veracity of this story is debatable, the longstanding presence of dumplings in Chinese cuisine is irrefutable. From the crescent-shaped har gow to the soup-filled xiao long bao, China has earned its reputation for creating delectable filled dough dishes. But did dumplings originate there? Were the first dumplings always stuffed? And how do dumplings like Italian tortellini and Polish pierogi fit into the global history?

Understanding Dumplings

Defining what constitutes a dumpling is more complicated than one might think. According to Merriam-Webster, a dumpling is described as 'a small mass of dough that is either boiled or steamed.' This definition suggests that dumplings don’t necessarily need to have any filling, including meat.

Historians generally agree that the earliest dumplings were actually unstuffed. These likely originated during prehistoric times, crafted by hunter-gatherers who sought new methods of preparing and eating grains. Dropping clumps of dough into boiling water would have been a natural progression from cooking loose grains. Though the reasons behind this transition remain speculative, we appreciate food historian Ken Albala’s explanation, shared with NPR in 2013: 'A dumpling, I don’t know, it just feels more fun to me.'

Although the concept of dumplings has advanced over the centuries, this simple version without a filling is still prevalent across many cultures. Examples include German spätzle made from wheat flour, Italian gnocchi typically made from flour and potatoes, and West African fufu made from cassava—all variations of plain dumplings without fillings.

The Origins of Dumplings

By 300 CE, dumplings had begun to evolve. Archeologists discovered a tomb in the Xinjiang region of China from that time period, which contained remains of stuffed dumplings. While this discovery marks the earliest evidence of dumplings, it doesn’t confirm China as the birthplace of the dish. Most food historians believe that the practice of making filled dumplings originated in Central Asia. From there, migrating Turkic nomads likely spread these recipes to the Mediterranean and across Asia.

This theory is supported by linguistic evidence. While the names for these dishes are distinct today, the Turkic term for dumpling is manti, which is believed to be the origin for Korea's mandu, Greece's manti, and China’s mantou. The Polish word pierogi and the Russian pelmeni may also trace their origins back to a Turkic language.

Some experts point to the earliest written reference to dumplings in De Re Coquinaria, a Roman cookbook compiled around the late 4th or early 5th century CE. It includes a recipe for small chunks of pheasant mixed with fat, broth, and spices, then poached in seasoned water. This early, grain-free dumpling expands the definition to include any food mixture that’s shaped into a lump and boiled.

While this definition is broad, it still doesn’t account for every dish considered a dumpling. If you set aside the cooking method and focus on the combination of wrapper and filling, fried foods like India’s samosas and Spain’s empanadas would qualify as dumplings. This might be a stretch, but few would contest a fried wonton’s inclusion in the dumpling family. Perhaps it's best to discard strict categories when it comes to dumplings, or simply use the word’s informal meaning: a term of affection for something small and cute.

Dumplings Across the Globe

As time passed, European dumplings evolved beyond simple boiled pheasant dumplings. In Eastern Europe, many enjoy crescent-shaped wheat dumplings filled with either sweet or savory ingredients. Known as pirohy in Slovakia and varenyky in Ukraine, they are most commonly referred to as Polish pierogi in English. The origins of pierogi can be traced back to 17th-century Poland. In 1682, cookbook author Stanisław Czerniecki released Compendium Ferculorum, which featured several recipes for sweet pierogi and one savory version with a veal kidney filling. Over time, cooks began replacing offal with more popular fillings, including mushrooms, sauerkraut, and a blend of cheese and potatoes.

The pierogi would eventually be honored as Poland’s national dish. It’s so cherished that it even has its own patron saint. According to one legend, Saint Hyacinth saved a town suffering from famine in the 13th century by delivering pierogis to them. Another version of the tale says he led the villagers in prayer, which caused their crops to miraculously sprout the next day. In gratitude, the villagers transformed their newfound wheat into fresh pierogis. If you'd like to add a quirky exclamation to your repertoire, try Święty Jacku z pierogami!, which translates to “St. Hyacinth and his pierogi!” It’s akin to saying “holy cow,” though it may be a bit tricky to pronounce unless you're fluent in Polish.

Italy is renowned for its pasta, but it wasn’t until around 500 years ago in Lombardy that a stuffed version made its appearance. The origins of this are still unclear. A cookbook from around 1300 references an Arabic pasta dish that was filled, dating back 200 years earlier. This dish was probably a relative of manti. However, whether this can be directly linked to the ravioli we know today remains uncertain. As food writer Rachel Roddy wisely puts it, 'After this, the work of historians documents terminological uncertainty, otherwise known as chaos.'

These Italian stuffed pasta varieties, filled with fine ingredients, were originally prepared and served in the courts of aristocrats. Once the recipes made their way to common kitchens, they were typically reserved for special occasions or holidays. Today, ravioli continues to be a popular dish to serve on Christmas in Italy.

Ravioli consists of meat, cheese, and/or vegetables enclosed between two sheets of pasta dough, usually cut into squares or circles. While ravioli is arguably Italy’s most internationally beloved stuffed pasta dish, it’s far from the only one. If ravioli is shaped into half-moon forms, you get mezzelune. Agnolotti shares a similar shape but is made by folding a single sheet of pasta over the filling rather than pressing two sheets together. Tortellini, the smallest among these, is made by connecting the ends of the pasta to form a ring. This shape is said to symbolize a belly button—specifically that of the goddess Venus, according to one legend that involves a mysterious innkeeper and a keyhole.

While most dumplings are small and bite-sized, some stuffed pasta is so large it’s difficult to fit on a fork. Ravioli gigante takes the concept of a dumpling to the extreme, turning a single pasta pocket into an entire serving. The largest of these culinary giants was made in Malta in 2013, weighing in at an astonishing 175 pounds.

The first recorded mention of dumplings in a U.S. cookbook appears in 1836’s The Virginia Housewife. Today, chicken and dumplings remain an iconic dish in Southern cuisine. The humble and comforting meal likely has roots in European traditions discussed earlier, evolving during the antebellum period with the help of enslaved cooks. It eventually became a staple in soul food culture.         

Dumplings are enjoyed worldwide, but the term is most commonly linked to Chinese food. One of the most iconic dumplings in China is jiaozi. Typically filled with either meat or vegetables, these simple yet flavorful bites are known for their pleated wheat dough wrappers.

These dumplings are commonly eaten during the Lunar New Year, but not because their shape resembles crescent moons. Their curved form is thought to be inspired by ancient Chinese coins, and consuming them is believed to bring good luck for the year ahead. In traditional custom, if you wish someone well in China, you serve them jiaozi with a coin tucked inside—after warning them not to bite into it.

Tasty Dumpling Fillings

Although meat and vegetables are the go-to fillings, dumplings can hold nearly anything. A great example is har gow, a dumpling that has its origins in a famous tale. A riverside tea house owner in Guangzhou, looking for a way to use fresh shrimp from the local waters, created a filling by packing the crustaceans into translucent dumpling wrappers.

Har gow has grown into a quintessential part of dim sum, where a variety of Cantonese small dishes are served alongside tea. Dim sum is traditionally enjoyed in the mornings, offering a delightful and interactive start to the day. To assess the skill of a dim sum chef, there’s an old practice: count the pleats in their har gow. The dumpling should have at least seven pleats, but the most skilled chefs manage to create 10 to 13 crimped folds.

Dumpling fillings can go beyond just solid foods. A chef from Shanghai's Nanxiang district, in the late 19th century, ingeniously figured out how to encapsulate hot soup inside a delicate wrapper. According to one tale, a restaurant owner named Huang Mingxian sought to make his steamed buns stand out from the competition. He began filling them with aspic—made by extracting collagen from animal bones and cartilage. Aspic solidifies when cooled, but when heated inside a steamed dumpling, it turns into a savory broth.

Huang Mingxian had a clever idea when naming his new creation: Nanxiang da rou mantou, which translates to 'large meat-filled bun from Nanxiang.' He intentionally chose a misleading name, thinking that customers would be pleasantly surprised by the small dumplings, rather than feeling deceived. This strategy worked, and soon people began calling it 'Nanxiang xiaolongbao.' The term Xiao refers to its small size, long to the bamboo steamer baskets used to cook them, and bao means bun.

Soup dumplings, while being some of the most delectable creations ever made, are also among the riskiest to eat. Hot soup inside a dumpling is a common cause of scald burns, and without care, a dumpling can be a hazard to bite into. To enjoy them safely, experts advise waiting three to four minutes after the steamer basket arrives at your table. If you lack the patience, you can speed up cooling by gently poking (or biting) the top of the bun to release steam. Alternatively, tear into the dumpling with your spoon and savor the broth one careful sip at a time.

Dumplings, from gourmet pasta to delicate dim sum, have evolved far from their humble beginnings. Yet, for simple comfort food, few things compare to a small, doughy bite—whether stuffed or not.