Buzz
You don't need to be a fan of the Great British Baking Show to appreciate the universal love for doughnuts. For those raised on the East Coast, apple cider doughnuts are a familiar treat. These doughnuts, closely associated with autumn, are especially popular in New England, where local orchards from Maine to Connecticut infuse their cider into the soft, golden rings. Combining sweet and savory flavors, and often coated in a tempting layer of cinnamon sugar, apple cider doughnuts might appear to be a legacy from the Colonial era. However, their history is surprisingly modern.
The story begins with Adolf Levitt, a Russian immigrant and entrepreneur. As detailed in Glazed America: A History of the Doughnut, Levitt acquired a series of New York bakeries in 1916. Noticing the American soldiers' fondness for these fried delights, he set out to create a machine that could mass-produce doughnuts to meet the demand. In 1920, he showcased a prototype in his Harlem bakery window, captivating the attention and appetites of those who passed by. Levitt later sold his doughnut-making machines and a proprietary flour mix to bakeries nationwide.
Levitt's marketing genius led to the establishment of the Doughnut Corporation of America. The company promoted doughnuts through extensive campaigns across print, radio, and television. A party guide from the World War II era, produced by the DCA, highlighted, “No other food is as comforting or as eagerly anticipated as the doughnut.” According to his granddaughter Sally L. Steinberg, Levitt wrote that he transformed doughnuts into a quintessential American snack, integral to coffee breaks, Halloween festivities with doughnuts hanging from strings, and political gatherings featuring stacks of doughnuts.
In October 1928, the DCA initiated the first National Doughnut Month. The organization occasionally made questionable suggestions in its enthusiasm. For instance, in 1941, alongside surgeon J. Howard Crum, it promoted the “doughnut diet,” advocating for a single-source nutrition plan. Later, it introduced “Vitamin Doughnuts,” made with a fortified flour mix that supposedly offered higher protein and nutrient content compared to homemade versions. (As per Glazed America, the federal government mandated they rename them “Enriched Flour Doughnuts.”) The public, however, remained unconvinced and didn’t embrace the marketing—or the doughnuts.
The DCA unveiled a flavor with enduring popularity in 1951. A New York Times article dated August 19 that year noted, “This fall, the Doughnut Corporation of America will launch its twenty-third annual campaign to boost doughnut sales with a new offering: the Sweet Cider Doughnut. This spiced, round cake is anticipated to resonate with the natural appeal of the autumn season.”
The recipe for cider doughnuts adds a seasonal twist to the classic buttermilk doughnut by incorporating apple cider into the batter, enhanced with cinnamon and nutmeg for a quintessential fall taste. Each orchard typically guards its own cherished family recipe, often serving the doughnuts alongside warm mulled cider. These treats have transcended their rural origins, becoming seasonal staples in national chains and home kitchens alike. Dunkin’ has embraced the trend, while Smitten Kitchen and The New York Times offer recipes for homemade versions.
While apple cider doughnuts have endured as a beloved treat, the DCA itself did not. In the 1970s, J. Lyons & Co. acquired Levitt’s DCA, and later, the founders of Seattle’s Top Pot Doughnuts purchased the DCA trademark. Although the company distributes its doughnuts across the country, its product line no longer includes a cider doughnut.
