Buzz
To host a truly authentic Thanksgiving, oysters are a must. These shellfish were a staple at the first Thanksgiving feasts, even though turkey may not have been on the menu. In the early days of American colonization, oysters were so prevalent along the coast that they often graced the tables of settlers, sometimes as a humble food source, and other times as a valued delicacy.
Oysters were a particularly accessible food. In the Chesapeake Bay, they were so abundant in the 17th and 18th centuries that ships had to navigate carefully to avoid running aground on the oyster beds. In 1702, one visitor mentioned that oysters could be harvested simply with a pair of tongs. Native Americans also relished oysters, gathering and feasting on them for days at a time.
Colonists consumed oysters in such large quantities that by the 19th century, their numbers dropped dramatically. As the mollusk population dwindled, oysters became a luxury enjoyed only by the affluent. This trend continued until the 1880s when oyster farming expanded, leading to a surge in production and a drop in prices. However, if you lived along the coast, oysters were still a regular part of your diet.
From the 1840s onward, canning and the expansion of railroads made oysters available to regions far beyond the coast. As described in the 1985 edition of The Celebrated Oysterhouse Cookbook, the mid-19th century saw America caught in a 'great oyster craze,' where 'no evening of pleasure was complete without oysters.' Hosts were expected to serve 'the luscious bivalves,' as they were affectionately known, to their guests.
By the turn of the 20th century, oysters remained a staple on Thanksgiving tables. They appeared in various forms, from New York City's Plaza Hotel to dining cars on trains, often served as soup, cocktails, or included in stuffing.
In 1954, the Fish and Wildlife Service sought to bring oysters back to Thanksgiving tables nationwide. They issued a press release titled 'Oysters—a Thanksgiving Tradition,' which included their own recipes for oyster bisque, cocktail sauce, and oyster stuffing [PDF].
In modern times, oysters have remained especially popular in the South during Thanksgiving. Oyster stuffing is a beloved dish in New Orleans, with chefs like Emeril Lagasse offering their own signature variations. If celebrity chef recipes aren’t your thing, you can try the Fish and Wildlife Service’s version, found below.
Oyster Stuffing
This recipe makes enough for a four-pound chicken.
Ingredients1 pint oysters, 1/2 cup chopped celery, 1/2 cup chopped onion, 1/4 cup butter, 4 cups day-old bread cubes, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, 1 teaspoon salt, Dash of poultry seasoning, Dash of pepper
- Drain oysters, reserving the liquor, and chop them.
- Sauté celery and onion in butter until tender.
- Mix oysters, cooked vegetables, bread cubes, and seasonings thoroughly.
- If the stuffing appears too dry, add some of the reserved oyster liquor to moisten.
If you're preparing a turkey, the Fish and Wildlife Service recommends this recipe for every five pounds of bird. Simply adjust the quantities based on the size of the turkey.
