1. Reflections on Hanoi's Autumn
The Street Vendors!
The street vendors. A lifetime of hardship and endless work. A lifetime of sweat that speaks of struggle...
No one knows when the street vendors first appeared. But when people think of these vendors, they immediately picture the hardworking women traveling back and forth to make a living... They remember the conical hats that cover their faces.
They recall the faded clothes and the heavy poles bending under the weight on their small shoulders... Yet, these humble images define a unique aspect of Hanoi: THE STREET VENDORS!
Hanoi’s streets are filled with these vendors. But perhaps in autumn, these street vendors become more special than ever. Tomorrow morning, when you walk out, you'll find a vendor selling fragrant grilled meat, and not far away, a vendor with green sticky rice.
Passersby stop, buy a little bit of fresh green rice, and the vendor carefully wraps it in lotus leaves, tying it with golden straw. Then, you might stop by the meat vendor and buy a few pieces. In this way, you bring the taste of your childhood to work from the small street vendor. (If you're unfamiliar with 'Vỉ Buồm,' look it up.)
Hanoi in autumn, Hanoi's autumn!
Autumn is especially beautiful when you have the time to wander around Hoan Kiem Lake or West Lake as the sun sets. At that moment, the sun slowly fades, its last rays fall on the water, and the sky gradually turns colors: People say this is a sunset with a purple hue.
It would be wonderful to watch the sunset with someone, but even alone, it’s perfectly fine. You can stroll slowly, maybe stop by a vendor selling preserved fruits or sour fruits... The vendor, carefully peeling a ripe fruit, cheerfully invites you to try, and even without an invitation, you’re already intrigued just by looking.
The sour fruits ripen in late summer, and when the season changes, the autumn rains bring fallen leaves. That's also the harvest season for ripe sour fruits. These fruits are carefully packaged and transported to markets in the early mornings, then returned to the streets on vendors' poles.
The vendor skillfully peels, slices, and marinates them with sugar, chili, and ginger, then shakes it all together. When you buy a portion, they give you a skewer to eat without getting your hands dirty. But, you should try eating it with your hands—it’s a delightful experience.
The delicate sour and lightly sweet taste of the ripe fruits, the spiciness of the chili, and the warmth of the ginger will tingle your taste buds, making every nerve in your mouth come alive... and then you enjoy the lingering taste on your fingers.
As you slowly eat and chat with the vendor, perhaps you’ll even buy some preserved fruits for the next day. Then, you say goodbye, each going their separate ways with the weight of life’s responsibilities, knowing you may never meet again. But you’ll always see that familiar image of vendors on the streets.
Wandering around, you might encounter another vendor, with yet another offering full of Hanoi’s autumn flavors. You stop and see what’s on offer, but also just to take a look around.
There are deep-fried pastries coated in sugar, pastries dipped in honey, crispy fried dough, sticky rice cakes, and sometimes even sweet potatoes, corn, or cassava... It feels like the entire world of street food is packed into these two baskets. They hold the sweet memories of your childhood, every time you hoped your mother would bring home a surprise from the market.
The joy bursts forth when you spot a small bundle wrapped in banana leaves, and you know inside there will be a few sesame candies or sugar-coated pastries. You and your siblings share them, laughing and enjoying the happiness. That sweet, fragrant taste lingers until now.
The pastries are gone, but the sweetness still clings to your fingers. No one says anything, but the three of you discreetly lick your fingers, savoring the last bits. And with a playful promise, you say, 'Next time, we’ll ask Mom to buy more.' That taste, still vivid in your memory, is why sometimes you buy those treats—not because you’re hungry, but because you want to reconnect with your childhood, with the flavors of the past...
People say Hanoi has become modern and civilized, and those street vendors should be banned because they spoil the city's appearance. While that’s true if they leave trash behind, it's also heartbreaking to think of a Hanoi without those figures—sweating under the weight of their poles, bringing autumn down to the streets and carrying with them our sweet memories of childhood.
So, let's love these vendors because they are part of Hanoi’s autumn... Let’s cherish the street vendors, who trade their sweat for every penny. They are the ones who raise the children of these hardworking mothers...
Hanoi is entering autumn. The season of ripe sour fruits...
Source


2. Our Hanoi
"Is it the month of August, when the autumn leaves start turning yellow?"
The poetic lyrics of the song 'Could it be you, the autumn of Hanoi?' always echo in my heart every time autumn arrives. And every time the cool breeze of autumn blows through, the streets of Hanoi are filled with the scent of milk flowers, and I find myself drifting back into memories...
As a traveler, I always plan my return to Hanoi as autumn approaches. For me, 'August' is not just a mark of time, but a symbol of autumn itself. So, whether it’s August, September, or October… as long as the cool breeze rustles the yellowing leaves and the fragrance of milk flowers fills the air, 'August' lives on in my heart.
Tomorrow morning when I wake up, I feel surrounded by the fragrance of the plants. The sky is clear, and the autumn sunlight turns everything golden. There's nothing better than sipping a cup of coffee in the Old Quarter, listening to an old melody, and absorbing the autumn atmosphere that fills the air. The '36 streets' are now witnessing the changing colors of the leaves. The golden leaves blanket Kim Ma, Nguyen Tri Phuong, Hoang Hoa Tham, Phan Dinh Phung, and Tran Phu streets, as beautiful as Korea.
I love Hanoi, a love as fragile as a first, unfulfilled love that remains intact in my heart despite the years of change. A love that defies explanation, much like the poet To Nhu Chau's feelings when he wrote a poem that was later set to music by composer Tran Quang Loc, creating a melody that captivated many. Few people know that neither of them had ever been to... Hanoi!
I love the cool breeze at the edge of autumn that only requires a light jacket, yet it draws people closer together. These gentle winds also carry the crisp fragrance of autumn. From the sweet, subtle scent of guavas mingling with the early morning air, to the pervasive aroma of milk flowers that linger everywhere.
I love the street vendors crisscrossing Hanoi’s streets. Sometimes it’s a flower vendor, offering fresh, vibrant roses and delicate daisies that tug at your heartstrings. Other times, it’s a vendor with a basket filled with autumn treats: fresh green sticky rice from Vong village, ripe guavas from Dong Du, sweet tamarillos from Xuan Dinh, chewy egg-shaped persimmons, bananas, or fragrant “Cô Tấm” fruit... Sometimes, it’s the familiar sound of a street vendor calling out, or their bright smiles that make you feel at home.
I love those cool evenings, walking along Nguyen Du or Quang Trung street, breathing in the strong fragrance of milk flowers that fill the air. Under the milk flower trees, perhaps there were first, fleeting kisses and soft hand-holding. An innocent school love, fragile like morning mist. It came and went, leaving behind beautiful memories of youth.
I love those moments when I meet with friends, sipping lemon tea along the Church Street, and wandering through small eateries to savor all the delicious dishes. Fried crab cakes with a deep, savory flavor, pickled ripe soursop, sticky rice cakes, hot crispy shrimp cakes from West Lake, vermicelli with grilled pork, fried tofu with shrimp paste… these culinary delights are the hallmark of Hanoi’s food culture.
I also love the moments when I catch sight of Hanoi’s young women, dressed in flowing white ao dais, shyly holding bouquets of daisies, capturing their youthful beauty in photographs. And when the golden honey-colored sunlight blankets the streets, couples take romantic wedding photos to mark the beginning of their journey together in life.
There are probably thousands of little 'loves' I hold for my beloved capital. Because Hanoi’s autumn has a tender, romantic quality that can’t be found anywhere else, making those who leave yearn for it deeply. Autumn, though fleeting and delicate, always leaves us with lingering memories, echoing the question: 'Could you be the autumn of Hanoi? The autumn of our dreams...'
Collected from Vietravel


3. Writing for Hanoi's Autumn
This morning, stepping out into the streets with a light shirt on, I felt the coolness of autumn settle into my every pore. I suddenly realized that summer had quietly left last night, and Hanoi was entering a gentle, romantic autumn!
On a crisp autumn morning, I opened the door to see Hanoi draped in a blanket of white mist. The fog softly clung to the rooftops, the trees, and the narrow alleys. The mist lingered in the air, settling gently around everything. As I gazed out the old window, I would often reach out to touch the soft dew resting on the green leaves, half-asleep.
In autumn, Hanoi’s streets are long and filled with golden leaves. With each light breeze, the leaves fall slowly, quietly, like they are reluctant to leave. Instead of the usual bustle and noise, the streets seem to pause, blending with the melancholy of fallen yellow leaves. On a familiar street, I picked up a yellow leaf, and for a moment, I felt a wave of loneliness. It reminded me of the day I parted ways with my first love when the streets were covered in golden leaves. I returned to the stone benches where we had shared countless fond memories, letting the fallen leaves drift away...
Autumn in Hanoi is fragile and chilly. The coldness doesn’t make you shiver, but it creates a longing for a warm, intimate gesture, a genuine hug. On my way to work, I received a message from a friend: “It’s getting cold, don’t forget to put on another layer.” It moved me, and I realized I wasn’t as alone as I thought. In this vast city, I still have true friends, and a sense of faith to guide me into tomorrow.
At night in Hanoi’s autumn, a soft breeze brings the sound of night vendors calling out. As I saw the figure of a bánh rong seller, her shadow long and fragile, I felt a pang of emotion. “Bánh khúc here… bánh khúc!” Her voice was hoarse, yet it resonated with a longing, as if searching for someone to share her feelings. Suddenly, I remembered my mother, who had once sold bánh rong at night to support my education. Thinking of the age spots on her weathered face, I couldn’t hold back my tears in the stillness of the night...
In autumn, the fragrance of milk flowers fills the air, lingering in the hearts of those who pass by. The scent of these flowers touches the very depths of the soul, evoking many emotions. And somehow, I found myself falling in love with the fragrance of milk flowers, a love that runs deep. The scent carries me back to the past, to distant memories, and brings about a bittersweet nostalgia. I don’t even know when it started, but the smell of milk flowers always brings a sense of longing and warmth to my heart.
Autumn in Hanoi, with its pure white school uniforms, reminds me of those joyous first days of school. The university doors opened, filled with promises of glory but also challenges. Soon, new students will have to leave their parents’ protective hands and face life independently, battling their own struggles. And I wonder, in this whole city, is there anyone as naive as I was, falling in love with the autumn hues of Hanoi for the first time, spending long afternoons sitting on the stone benches... writing poetry?
Autumn in Hanoi brings the aroma of young green rice. As writer Thach Lam once wrote: “Rice cakes aren’t for those in a hurry.” On a rare, leisurely weekend, instead of grabbing a quick breakfast of sticky rice or baguette with pate, I bought a handful of fresh rice cakes wrapped in lotus leaves from a girl from Vong village. Only then did I truly understand how the autumn of Hanoi would feel incomplete without the rich, comforting taste of fresh rice cakes.
Hanoi’s autumn seems to be a reminder for all of us to slow down and reconnect with tranquility, simplicity, and the beauty of the simple life. I love Hanoi’s autumn deeply!
Essay by PHAN DUC LOC (Source: Báo Quân Đội Nhân Dân)


4. Autumn’s Delights
The autumn season in Hanoi is the most beautiful time of the year. The golden rays of sunlight, accompanied by a gentle breeze, fill the cool sky and carry the fragrance of milk flowers everywhere.
Every autumn, aside from the distinct aroma of milk flowers, the season also brings delicate gifts that are hard to find anywhere else.
For a long time, 'Cốm' has been the quintessential gift that captures the essence of Hanoi’s autumn. For anyone who has left Hanoi, the scent of 'cốm' brings back fond memories of the fall. Made from glutinous rice, carefully roasted, and then pounded and sifted to remove the husks, this humble yet elegant treat evokes simplicity. If you visit Hanoi during the autumn, you cannot forget the delicate 'cốm' from Vòng village. The grains of 'cốm' are jade green, thin, chewy, and have a subtle sweetness wrapped in lotus leaves. It's said that to experience Hanoi’s autumn fully, one must try this autumn delicacy—cốm paired with bananas, a combination that makes for an unforgettable flavor.
From the 'cốm' itself, various dishes are made such as 'cốm cake', 'cốm pudding', 'cốm sticky rice', and 'cốm pastries', all of which are equally delightful.
By the end of September in the lunar calendar, the rươi (tiny shrimp) season arrives. Though these creatures live in coastal waters, the dish made with rươi is popular in Hanoi’s cuisine. When rươi is in season, the go-to dish is ‘rươi fritters’. Writer Vũ Bằng once described this autumn dish in his book ‘Delicious Dishes of Hanoi’: “More common is the rươi fritter. The rươi is mixed with minced meat, beaten eggs, dill, and small pieces of citrus peel, all seasoned with fish sauce, then fried over low heat: this dish has an aroma so strong it could ‘make the neighbors’ noses twitch’. When served, it’s sprinkled with a pinch of pepper and topped with fresh cilantro, best enjoyed hot.”
By the end of autumn, as the streets of Hanoi get covered with falling leaves, the sight of ripe 'sấu' (a type of fruit) under the green trees tempts many to enjoy them. The simplest way to prepare sấu is to peel the skin and dip it in chili salt. For a more complex dish, the sấu can be marinated in a sweet and sour mixture of sugar, salt, and chili powder. The tangy, spicy, sweet, and crunchy taste lingers on the tongue, evoking nostalgia for those far from Hanoi.
- Collected by -


5. Late Autumn: Longing for Hanoi’s Fall
Wandering alone on a crisp autumn night, the loneliness feels like it brushes against the soul, stirring up memories of days gone by. I let myself drift, hurriedly packing away my private thoughts, sending my love to that distant, forgotten place.
Do you love autumn? I imagine many would say it is a season of love, a time when the soul connects deeply with nature, a season full of nostalgia that lingers like a soft, sweet sorrow in the quiet, desolate afternoon. Why then, would we not be moved, if our hearts have not yet become too old, too hardened?
I love autumn on those unexpected days. When the sunlight is thin and delicate, spreading like gossamer all the way to the horizon. When the cool breeze of early autumn touches skin that has begun to feel the chill, the air thick with change. When space and color blend together, transforming into something magical and endless. I love the trees, their leaves suddenly aglow in shades of yellow and red. I watch in silence as these tender moments of autumn drift by, like a leaf falling from the branch.
My steps are light as I walk on the carpet of dry leaves after a gusty night. I wonder, is winter truly coming soon? These moments are brief but exquisite, as the final autumn days transition into the crisp embrace of winter, as nature offers its last vestiges of warmth.
The trees seem to strain, gathering every last drop of sap, squeezing out every bit of life to nourish the golden and red leaves, delaying their inevitable fall. They are in a hurry, pouring out their final bursts of vitality, showing off their brilliant hues in a desperate attempt to cling to life as time relentlessly moves on.
And thus, the world is gifted with the most perfect, most spectacular display of nature's colors—something no museum could ever contain. This beautiful painting exists all around us, a vivid mix of red and brown leaves swirling in the wind, the pale yellow of pears and peach trees in the height of harvest, and fields of sunflowers joyfully reaching toward the sun. In the distance, clouds as soft as cotton hang over the mountains, their reflections dancing on the surface of the river. But these moments are fleeting, golden hours when the sun's light lingers gently. Autumn here is often accompanied by the soft, persistent drizzle of rain, so light it feels like mist, but enough to cloud the eyes and keep the day dreary and endless.
The day wakes up only near noon, while the sunset tries to escape before evening fully arrives. The days seem unusually short, and before you know it, time passes swiftly without any notice. It’s easy to become lost in memories during autumn, when the sunlight is soft and the air carries a sense of longing.
I fear the gray sky of loneliness, the quiet sorrow that wraps around the heart. My steps feel heavy and aimless on familiar streets. Years of wandering in distant lands have made me feel colder, more distant, as autumn brings the inevitable approach of winter. My soul feels unsteady, empty. Memories are things beyond reach, yet in the corners of my heart, they come alive when I am lost in thought on a lonely autumn afternoon. A familiar song plays, bringing me back to a far-off place.
Hanoi in autumn, the yellow leaves of the guava trees, the red leaves of the maple trees.
Side by side, the old streets with their brown-tiled roofs.
Trịnh Công Sơn
This is my homeland, where the long streets are filled with the scent of autumn winds. Where the surface of West Lake shimmers with the moonlight, its reflection rippling gently with each passing wave. It’s a place where, when weary, I long to return and be cradled by the warmth of memories. How many times has Hanoi welcomed me back during the autumn? I hear the call of the vendors early in the morning, and I feel a strange sense of peace in my heart. I wake up in my childhood home, filled with memories. The yellow flowers outside still gently release their fragrance, and I inhale deeply, as though afraid that tomorrow I won’t be able to find it again.
I walk with my mother to the morning market in the autumn. The sky is high and clear, the gentle breeze brushes my hair, and the coolness of autumn flushes my cheeks pink. Holding my mother’s hand tightly, I feel like the carefree little girl of the past. I want to hold on to this moment, this feeling, because I fear that one day, when I am far from her, the call of ‘Mother’ will feel distant and unfamiliar, and I will be lost in the market, separated from everything I once knew.
Suddenly, I am reminded of the fresh, fragrant smell of sticky rice, of ripe bananas warmed by the sun, the sweet gusts of wind, the deep red persimmons gently nestled together, the last seasonal custard apples waiting to be opened, and the fragrant pomelo, so fresh it stirs memories of childhood nights spent gazing at the moon. All the tastes of autumn are captured in the basket my mother carries, bringing me back home.
I love those quiet afternoons, sitting in a familiar yet foreign café, the view drifting into infinity. I blend in with the bustling crowd, walking alongside the tree-lined streets, watching couples sit close on the benches by the lake.
Faintly, I see a woman carrying flowers, as if she were carrying autumn itself with every step. I watch a group of small birds still busy foraging in the fading sunset, the last rays of the sun coloring the horizon red. The sound of time passing seems to slow as it echoes in the rustling of the leaves, caught in the wind and floating higher and higher.
I try to hold onto time, begging it to stop, so I can preserve this peaceful moment forever, like holding a small flame to warm my heart on cold winter days. And when the time comes to leave, I will miss this land so dearly, the place that has always embraced me, offering solace after the weight of the world.
My dear friend, don’t be fooled by the tales of golden autumns in Europe. Don’t forget that Hanoi in autumn is incredibly beautiful. Listen to the sounds of life that echo in the air. Hear autumn in the rustling of the falling leaves. You’ll feel your worries melt away as you stand under the golden light, wrapped in the sweet scent of milk flowers, so familiar, yet so deeply comforting.
Wandering alone on a crisp autumn night, the loneliness feels like it brushes against the soul, stirring up memories of days gone by. I let myself drift, hurriedly packing away my private thoughts, sending my love to that distant, forgotten place.
Author: Tran Thuy


6. Waiting for autumn to fall in love with Hanoi again...
My university friend comes from various regions of the country. Once, you asked me, what's so beautiful about autumn in Hanoi? Now that you're here in Hanoi, what could be better than patiently waiting for autumn to arrive...
On a Sunday morning, you and I rode together through the streets on the old green Mifa bicycle. The sky was high and vast, with clouds hovering in layers, and the first rare sunbeams pierced through the cloud layers and tree canopies. We felt a cool breeze of early autumn and the gentle warmth of golden rays brushing over the road still damp from the rain the night before. It seemed as if the long rain had washed away the dust of the past day. Everything looked fresh, the pace of life slowed down, and people seemed more peaceful and gentle, forgetting the weight of their worries for a while... We found a small pho restaurant. We sat on the sidewalk; I ordered rare beef pho, you chose well-done without extra onions, and didn’t forget to order iced coffee for you and hot tea for me. We sat there for hours, chatting a little just as an excuse, but mainly to admire the clouds in the sky and watch the autumn leaves fall. In Hanoi’s autumn, it's easy to find peaceful, romantic scenes even in the bustling, noisy streets. Surrounding us was a fragile, soothing atmosphere. Time seemed to move slower, stretching along the picturesque trees on Phan Dinh Phung Street. A subtle feeling of nostalgia lingered like cobwebs. The autumn sun bathed the streets and corners in yellow hues. The pace of autumn walked gently, like a mist, serene as though it knew itself, full of life’s reflections. Autumn gathers fallen yellow leaves from the sun-soaked summer. Under the sweet autumn sun, I savored the taste of green sticky rice. In the cool breeze, I could almost smell the fragrant white flowers of milkweed. Not everyone loves the smell of milkweed; it can be strong and pungent. But for those who do, it becomes a cherished scent. When far away, I miss this sweet scent dearly. You said, the scene was as beautiful as a painting. But I think it’s even more beautiful than a painting. Because only in real life, can I truly experience the essence of autumn with all my senses. My eyes catch the subtle color changes from deep green to pale green, gradually turning to yellow, orange, and finally the deep red of autumn. My nose catches the earthy smell of wet wood and the decaying leaves from last autumn. My tongue tastes the sweetness and freshness of the autumn air. My ears hear the silent fall of leaves, landing softly on the ground. My skin feels the gentle touch of the autumn breeze descending from the sky filled with white clouds. You wished for a strong wind to blow through, making the golden leaves fall like a shower. Hanoi in autumn is beautiful not only because of the peaceful sky and earth, the flora and fauna, but also because of the gentle memories it brings. I remember the first day of school in 12th grade, the same road, the same school, the same friends, girls in white ao dai, high heels, and dark hair cut straight at the shoulders... I remember the stressful lessons, the play breaks filled with sweat, the tears of goodbyes, and the unfinished signatures in yearbooks. Then, a few years later, during another autumn breeze... at a friend's wedding, we reunited and heard someone say: 'If only back then...' I wonder, for those of us far from Hanoi, when reminiscing about home during this season, do we still remember Nguyen Du Street, soaked with the scent of milkweed, the jacaranda trees on Tho Nhuom Street starting to dry their leaves, the weeping willows at Hoan Kiem Lake swaying, and the flamboyant trees along Ly Thuong Kiet Road shedding tiny golden leaves across the sidewalks... There, still the same street, the same sidewalk, and the same old small cafes from year to year, yet everything feels 'new' every time autumn comes. That’s the charm of Hanoi, something only a few can feel, especially in autumn, which always brings a sense of longing and nostalgia for those who are far away. My university friend comes from different regions of the country. Each place carries its own unique beauty. Once, you asked me, what's so beautiful about autumn in Hanoi? If you're far away, you can still feel the beauty of Hanoi’s autumn through many classic or modern artworks. But now, since you’re here in Hanoi, what could be more wonderful than patiently waiting for autumn? What you feel yourself is the truest experience of Hanoi’s autumn, because autumn truly exists only for those who know how to stop and wait, to admire and savor the beauty of nature and the city as the seasons change... Autumn comes and goes like a chance encounter. Quietly and gently, autumn follows its natural course in time. Though brief, autumn stirs up so many emotions and dreams in the rush of life. On the autumn streets, riding slowly to feel the rustling of leaves, the chill of the breeze. To see myself and autumn blending in memories and hope. It’s the time to reflect on oneself, to find the true self and live more beautifully, trusting and hoping in those around us. You said, soon everything will be covered in frost. The branches will be bare and thin. The golden leaves will fade into oblivion. Time is always ready to erode memories. What matters is the heart. Thinking this, I said aloud, 'If you want to remember, you can never forget.' You hummed, 'Time never returns. Only the heart can return to time.' And you smiled at me, right?

7. Autumn and the days filled with longing
The days of falling leaves, the arrival of autumn. Hanoi is filled with a light, nostalgic feeling, as the golden leaves gently float away in the warm golden afternoons. Even though the streets are bustling with countless concerns, they remain pure during the leaf-falling days.
This year’s autumn came exactly as expected, bringing a sudden flood of emotions. The endless green of autumn, one early morning, as I gazed at the small corners of Hanoi’s streets, a gust of wind arrived, and suddenly, yellow leaves floated down. I reached out to touch them, walking slower... to feel the scent of autumn soak into my fingertips. Autumn has come. Amidst the vast winds and drizzly rain.
Autumn has arrived, and my heart feels so unsettled. I yearn for those old autumn days, those days when I could wear a floral dress and rush out into the street, embracing the city. Those days, which seemed ordinary at the time, when I could sit in any roadside café, call up a few friends, and chat until noon, amidst the falling leaves and the breezy gusts. That simple, ordinary time... now, oh how I long for it.
Hanoi mornings are calm under the smooth autumn sky. Walking through familiar places, in a memory-filled realm of blue, I see a boundless green embracing my city. Hoan Kiem Lake is fuller, greener, lying quietly beneath the willows, their long branches swaying. The trees stand still, catching the morning autumn rain, wet with mist. The distant streets stand frozen, silently watching, enveloped in the quiet space of the sky and earth. Sitting on the balcony of a familiar café, looking towards the rippling lake, my mind calms, and memories flood back, all within the fragrant rain.
Random memories of yesterday when I was a very young heart, innocently walking through this city. I took slow, hesitant steps, with innocent feelings of nostalgia toward Hoan Kiem Lake. Slight sadness, a hint of longing, a touch of joy... all gentle, still, in the autumn rains of the city. Then, in the soft autumn drizzle, just like today, I met you. By chance. And then we stopped, saw each other, and gently touched each other's souls. The empty spaces in me, you filled. And you showed me a Hanoi that was closer, more real, and deeper, filled with so many emotions. Genuine feelings in every moment with this land. Hanoi is no longer just a place I like; it has become a love. Love is not as light as liking. Love is full, it is filled with longing and sorrow.
Oh, Hanoi’s autumn is so peaceful. A little girl smiles brightly as she runs into the breeze, with leaves fluttering like golden pieces of spring sunshine. I step lightly on the golden carpet, afraid to touch the leaves, to disturb the vast wind... then I quietly listen to the whispering sound of the leaves...
With you, quickly snapping photos to capture the moment when a leaf tilts in the air and gently touches the ground, like a shy embrace of first love.
Hanoi in this season is filled with a little more joy. Walking on streets covered in golden leaves, watching the leaves fall, my heart quietly whispers:
"Another leaf falls
The streets feel less lonely."
Then, at night, when the city sleeps, there are still leaves whispering to the streets, telling thousands of stories, both sad and joyful, of the years gone by. They softly warm each other, leaning on one another to listen to each other's quiet breath. The streets and the leaves swirl together in a dance full of longing throughout the night. Slowly, gently, the night passes peacefully, and there are no longer empty streets, long and silent, afraid to touch the night. The leaves stay by the streets, gently.
The days of falling leaves, the arrival of autumn. Hanoi is filled with a light, nostalgic feeling, as golden leaves gently float away in the warm golden afternoons. Even though the streets are bustling with countless concerns, they remain pure during the leaf-falling days.
The season of falling leaves, a golden expanse, expressing the city's feelings, peaceful in every moment. And I hope the people of Hanoi continue to accept the love of this land with open hearts, cherishing these moments as if preserving the peaceful days of the past.
- Thanh Anh -


8. A glimpse of Hanoi’s Autumn
Hà Nội is beautiful year-round, but perhaps its most stunning season is autumn. This is when the city truly captures the essence of what nature has to offer.
Some say that if you visit Hà Nội and don't experience autumn, you haven't fully explored the beauty of the city. Others believe that without autumn, Hà Nội wouldn't be Hà Nội anymore.
On a crisp autumn morning, standing on a small balcony, you can immediately feel the cool breeze wrap around you. Taking a deep breath, the gentle mist carries the delicate scents of Hà Nội's unique flowers. Soon after, the first rays of sunlight illuminate the streets, and the sky stretches out, clear and cloudless. The once harsh sun becomes gentle, casting a warm, golden glow over everything. The autumn wind softly sweeps through, carrying golden leaves in its dance. Hà Nội in autumn has a quiet, serene beauty, a unique charm. If it's your first autumn in Hà Nội, spend a morning wandering the streets, savoring some local breakfast treats, and find a cozy café by the lake or on a street corner to fully immerse yourself in the autumn vibes.
“Hà Nội in autumn, autumn in Hà Nội. The scent of the milk flower fills the air. The green rice flakes arrive, fragrant in the breeze. Milk rice on the streets, filling the air as people pass by…”
When autumn arrives in Hà Nội, you can't miss the fragrance of the capital’s signature flower, wafting through the streets. The sweet scent of the milk flower, carried on the cool breeze, stirs the hearts of many.
No matter how far you travel, every time the smell of the milk flower touches your senses, you know autumn has arrived. The milk flower is the 'angel of autumn' in Hà Nội. Without it, there wouldn't be autumn in Hà Nội. While some may find its intense fragrance overwhelming during peak bloom, its absence would leave a longing, as if the soul of autumn is missing.
Walking along streets littered with fallen flowers, each step brings personal reflections, a sense of nostalgia as a new season approaches.
Hà Nội’s autumn is breathtaking, with soft sunlight and golden leaves floating gently in the breeze. Everywhere, the air is filled with the scent of milk flowers, and you might even encounter the vendors from Vòng Village, their baskets of rice flakes spreading the warm, earthy fragrance of freshly harvested rice through the alleyways.
Green rice flakes are wrapped in lotus leaves, their fragrance infused with the pure scent of lotus flowers, all carefully packaged in slender golden straw. The rice flakes have a unique sweetness, like the taste of milk and autumn sunshine. Unwrapping the package, you can almost taste the balance of autumn’s warmth and the lingering moisture from the summer rains. These tender rice flakes are delicious with ripe bananas or the sweet, plump persimmons, simple yet refined. Every autumn, these rice flakes become a special part of Hà Nội's autumn, adding to its depth and soul.
Strolling through the streets, the gentle wind brings a sense of lightness, almost making you feel weightless. The breeze is no longer harsh but cool enough to stir your emotions. It seems as if the sunlight has become more gentle, evoking old memories, bringing life to the flowers and trees that no longer have to endure the harsh heat of summer. Autumn brings roads lined with golden leaves, and as you walk through the streets, there’s a simple joy in watching the leaves float delicately to the ground. Some even say that if you catch a falling leaf, you can make a wish.
Wandering around the streets covered with autumn leaves, you might feel as though you've stepped into a fairytale garden, surrounded by the vibrant colors of nature. The hues range from pale yellow to lemon, from bright golden to deep red, crimson, and purple, creating a mesmerizing canvas.
As early September arrives, it feels like the season has been here for a long time. The sun dries the damp windows and streets, casting a golden light on everything, while the sour fruit trees lining the streets begin to turn yellow. The fruit, when peeled, reveals golden flesh, and eating it requires skill to carefully separate it from its seeds. These fruits, whether eaten with salt or mixed with sugar, salt, and chili, have become a unique urban treat that lingers in the minds of those who visit Hà Nội. Autumn in Hà Nội is bathed in golden sunlight, but that doesn't mean it lacks its share of rain.
The autumn rain in Hà Nội is soft and brief, unlike the torrential summer downpours or the bitter cold rains of winter. The rain comes suddenly and disappears just as quickly, leaving the air fresh and cool, cleansing the city from the summer dust, while filling the soul with indescribable emotions.
Hà Nội’s autumn rains bring a unique sense of romance and nostalgia. The rain eases the challenges of city life, washing away the pollution and giving the streets a refreshing, clean appearance. After the rain, Hồ Gươm (Sword Lake) seems to stretch further, its waters turning an even richer shade of green. The Turtle Tower stands taller and more majestic, and the Flag Tower reaches for the sky with renewed pride. Walking through the streets after the rain, beneath the golden autumn sunlight, the trees and street corners seem to have put on fresh, vibrant clothes.
Out of all the seasons in Hà Nội, autumn is the most beautiful. Have you visited Hà Nội during this time yet? If not, let me tell you that Hà Nội's autumn is already stunning, but late autumn brings even more emotions. During this time, the weather can feel like all four seasons in one day. Some days, mist falls like spring rain, soaking the trees and streets. By noon, the sun comes out and the heat feels overwhelming. Suddenly, a summer shower arrives, washing the streets clean, and within moments, the sky becomes clear and cool. In the evening, the wind picks up again, and as you walk through the streets, the golden leaves fall gracefully. By nightfall, the scent of milk flowers fills the air, growing stronger, as a chill sets in, signaling that winter is approaching.
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9. Hà Nội - The Return of Autumn
Hà Nội has a unique trait, for its autumn arrives in a way that’s truly different. It's neither as hot as summer nor as bitterly cold as winter, nor as damp as spring. Hà Nội's autumn is a gift from nature, one that you can search the world over and never find elsewhere.
Autumn in Hà Nội follows the heavy rains. Just visiting Hà Nội in early October, feeling the first autumn breeze and seeing the streets blanketed in golden leaves after an afternoon of gusty winds, will make it unforgettable.
Though we call it autumn, it doesn’t seem to arrive with the season, but rather in a fleeting moment. That moment of autumn transforms everything it touches into something soft and gentle, quieting the heart, inspiring a romantic calmness, and making us pause to savor the delicate beauty of the season…
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