With a history spanning generations in the Old Quarter, Phat Loc Alley is where you can find noodle dishes that simply make people exclaim: “Ah, this is the essence of Hanoi's cuisine!”.
Discovering Hanoi's Culinary Delights in Phat Loc Alley
Wandering through the Old Quarter, you'll feel like you've stumbled into a culinary paradise with a plethora of eateries, from humble street stalls to upscale restaurants. In Hanoi, whether you're seeking adventure or satiation, it's worthwhile to explore the narrow streets where the most refined culinary experiences remain untouched by commercialization.
Phat Loc Alley has stood the test of time in the Old Quarter, offering noodle dishes that evoke exclamations of “Ah, this is the essence of Hanoi's cuisine!” at the mere mention of their names.
1. Bamboo Skewer Grilled Pork Belly Noodles
Hanoi's Bun cha stands out with its grilled pork belly, sizzling on charcoal grills. Those who cut corners end up pouring the finished product into a large bowl, and diners only need to pick from the bowl and dip into the rich, fatty broth.
Sometimes, to find the nostalgic taste of Hanoi's bun cha, I have to wander through the winding streets, slipping past moss-covered awnings, until I chance upon a vendor deftly flipping meat patties while arranging noodles on plates.
At Phat Loc, there are two types of meat patties: skewered and wrapped in betel leaves. With the skewered variety, although the meat is grilled over charcoal, discerning diners can detect the gentle fragrance of bamboo skewers rather than just the smoke from metal grills.
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As for the minced meat wrapped in betel leaves, the evenly seasoned meat offers a more intense flavor. The vendor wraps the minced meat in betel leaves and then skewers them onto bamboo sticks for grilling. Just a few minutes on the fire, and the betel leaves release a fragrance that blends with the rich sweetness of the meat.
Despite the bustling crowds, the owner of the eatery only grills the meat when customers arrive. Their hands skillfully rotate the skewers, while their other hand fans the charcoal to keep it hot. Consequently, the bowl of bun cha is always shrouded in smoke.
2. Phat Loc's Crab Noodle Soup (Bun rieu cua)
The bun rieu cua shop in Phat Loc Alley, though simple in its cooking method and ingredients, still attracts discerning foodies in droves.
A few baskets of noodles, a couple of stacks of bowls, and two pots of broth are sufficient for a day's business for the 60-year-old shop owner. A bowl of bun rieu consists of a straightforward broth, crab meat, a few pieces of tofu, with the option for extra pork knuckles for those who wish to indulge.
Every diner praises the delicious broth here, its rich and flavorful taste deriving not from artificial sweeteners but mostly from spices and long hours of simmering bones.
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Remarkably, the prices at this shop are lower than those at other establishments in the Old Quarter. For just 10,000-20,000 dong, patrons can enjoy a satisfying breakfast.
As we enjoyed our bowl of bun rieu, we overheard the shop owner sharing that they primarily cater to locals living in the Old Quarter, hence the affordable prices that suit the working class.
I remember back in my hometown, we had a dish called 'bun bung.' My mother named it so because diners didn't have tables; they just held their bowls and ate quickly to make it to work on time. Looking at this small bun shop, I'm reminded of those days in Hanoi. Sometimes, those bowls seem to have a life of their own, yet they always emanate a delicious fragrance that evokes nostalgia.
3. Bun dau with shrimp paste
Located in a narrow alleyway, these bun dau eateries also attract many diners. Bun dau with shrimp paste is abundant in Hanoi, but finding a truly delicious spot is not easy.
My friends in Hanoi recommended famous areas like Khay and Nghia Tan, but it seems that only in Phat Loc Alley can you find bun dau with shrimp paste that satisfies discerning palates like mine.
Due to the narrow alley, these eateries are snugly tucked away. As soon as customers place their orders, the proprietors serve up a platter of bun dau with golden fried tofu, boiled pork belly, and a basket of fresh herbs. Those craving more can also order fried spring rolls, cinnamon pork sausages, or fried pork intestines.
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Bun dau in Phat Loc Alley is renowned for its crispy fried tofu and shrimp paste. These traditional establishments only use premium tofu, which is rich, creamy, and smooth, with no hint of dryness or bitterness when eaten.
As the fried tofu touches your lips, the crispy exterior gives way to a tender and creamy inside. Diners praise its warmth and flavor, delighted by the quality of the tofu.
The shrimp paste here has a special vibrant pink hue. Despite its reputation for being pungent, the shrimp paste in Phat Loc Alley exudes a gentle, fragrant aroma, unlike the strong and overpowering scent found elsewhere.
With just two main ingredients, tofu and shrimp paste, the delicious bun dau of Phat Loc Alley has become a trademark of this small lane.
Leaving Phat Loc Alley behind, I continue my culinary journey through the streets of Hanoi's Old Quarter. Though changing, these rustic dishes still contribute to shaping the distinctive culinary style of Hanoians.
According to Tuoitre.vn
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Reference: Travel guide from Mytour
TravelGuide.comNovember 24th, 2015