Buzz
Photo credit: Light Field Studios/Getty ImagesA plump pout has become one of the most desirable features—just ask the estimated 3 million people who turn to soft tissue fillers for that fuller look each year. However, not everyone is keen on injections. For those who prefer a needle-free approach, lip-plumping products offer a viable alternative to enhance lip volume. But do these products really deliver results? We consulted beauty professionals to get their honest opinion on the effectiveness of these lip enhancers.
A Brief History of Lip Plumpers
The first wave of lip plumpers emerged in the mid-2000s and quickly grew into a major beauty trend by 2010. These products typically contained mildly irritating vasodilator ingredients like peppermint, cinnamon, ginger, and capsaicin, according to Blair Hayes, a board-certified aesthetics physician assistant. Some even incorporated bee venom, which was thought to induce an inflammatory reaction.
At the time, it was common to find a tube of tingling lip plumper in almost everyone's purse, with many enjoying the slight sensation it provided. “These ingredients helped increase blood flow, causing a temporary swelling effect—AKA plump lips,” explains Hayes.
While the sensation felt great, it sometimes led to an unpleasant outcome: sore lips. Lip skin is incredibly sensitive, and these irritating ingredients could cause redness, flaking, stinging, and burning. This was troublesome for anyone, but particularly challenging for those with sensitive skin.
Modern Lip-Plumping Formulas
Although some older products may still be on the market, today's lip plumpers typically rely on gentler ingredients that provide longer-lasting results. Marisa Garshick, MD, a board-certified dermatologist, notes that some of the common ingredients found in these updated formulas include the following:
- Hyaluronic Acid: A powerful humectant that draws moisture into the skin. Remarkably, hyaluronic acid can retain up to 1000 times its weight in water. It's a key component in Shiseido's luxurious Bio Performance Serum Duo that provides similar effects to fillers.
- Peptides: “This ingredient helps stimulate collagen production, potentially enhancing the lips' overall appearance over time,” explains Dr. Garshick.
- Glycerin: Another humectant that contributes to soft, plump lips.
- Botanical Oils & Butters: Ingredients like avocado oil, jojoba oil, and shea butter condition the lips, helping them stay hydrated and plump.
Many of today's lip-plumping formulas mix small amounts of traditional irritants with the ingredients mentioned above. You may find that your lips respond better to these modern blends.
So, Do Lip Plumpers Really Deliver?
In short: yes, lip plumpers do work. But how effective are they? The difference is usually somewhere between subtle results that are only noticeable to you and results that come close to those achieved with fillers.
“I believe these products are a great choice for a quick lip-plumping boost, but it's crucial to keep expectations realistic, as the effects are usually subtle and short-lived,” Hayes adds.
Kim Nichols, MD, a board-certified dermatologist, shares a similar perspective. While she acknowledges that lip plumpers do show results, they are far from dramatic and certainly don't compare to the effects of lip fillers (which, depending on your desired look, could be considered an advantage).
“Lip plumpers simply cause the lips to swell, whereas lip fillers not only increase lip size but also enhance their shape, reduce the visibility of fine lines and wrinkles, balance the upper and lower lips, and provide long-lasting hydration and improved lip color,” explains Dr. Nichols. Still, a lip plumper can certainly enhance the effect of a bold red lipstick.
