Buzz
A land shaped like the letter S stretches across various latitudes, dividing into 3 regions: North, Central, and South. Each region boasts its own distinctive features, but the most pronounced difference lies in the cuisine between the North and the South.
Returning to Hanoi after a long stint in Saigon, I casually ordered a 'coffee with milk and ice' at my usual spot. The waitress quickly corrected it to 'iced brown coffee' to the bartender. It struck me then, the difference in cuisine between the North and the South isn't just about a small beverage or a name; it's a vast, profound contrast akin to the cultural and temperamental disparities between the two regions that we often compare in moments of joy.
The most palpable difference when comparing Northern and Southern cuisine is in the flavors. The initial impression of Southern cuisine is perhaps its sweetness. Almost every dish—be it braised fish, caramelized pork, or sour soup—is infused with sugar or derives its sweet, rich flavor from coconut water or fatty coconut cream. Those unaccustomed to it might find themselves overwhelmed by the excessive sweetness during a week in Saigon. In contrast, Northern cuisine favors sourness. It's the tangy freshness of ripe tamarind or green sour plum in a bowl of boiled morning glory, the blush of ripe tomatoes in a bowl of rib vermicelli, the tanginess of fermented fish in a pot of soup simmered with morning glory, or the sharpness of vinegar in a bowl of aromatic snail vermicelli soup. Perhaps due to its reserved, contemplative nature, in Northern cuisine, every flavor stops at a point of harmony, just enough to tantalize the taste buds. Even when sour, spicy, salty, and sweet blend in a dish, none overpower the other; everything coalesces into a gentle symphony.
Southern cuisine, on the other hand, is quite the opposite. The straightforward and generous nature of Southern people is immediately evident in their bold and unforgettable flavors: salty must be briny, spicy must be fiery, sour enough to make you pucker, sweet intense, bitter sharp, fatty rich, and when it's hot, it must be piping hot—hot enough to blow and eat simultaneously. Eating Southern dishes is an experience of exclamation, of taking deep breaths; the food reflects the honest and forthright nature, unafraid to lay it all out with loved ones.
Yet, if we compare the ingredients used in cooking, Southern folks tend to be more intricate and diverse than their Northern counterparts. In the North, meals are typically simple with vegetables easily grown and picked from the backyard: water spinach, morning glory, fern, bitter vegetables... Most savory dishes are freshwater seafood readily available such as shrimp, crab, fish, clams, mussels... It's easy to notice the prevalent use of fish sauce in Northern cuisine for marination and seasoning, sometimes even shrimp paste—a distinctive condiment of the Northern region. Southern cuisine, particularly in the Mekong Delta, is most elaborate with various types of leafy greens and the amalgamation of multiple ingredients in a single dish. Trying dishes like 'lau bong' (flower hotpot), 'lau ca keo' (mudfish hotpot), or various salad rolls will dazzle you with the myriad of greens and leaves overflowing on the dining table: from water lilies, bitter vegetables, purple cabbage, morning glory flowers, water mimosa, sesame leaves, to edible flowers—all offering a combination of sour, bitter, sweet, and nutty flavors from the forest and the water. Seafood varieties in Southern cuisine are also more diverse compared to the North, notably the Ca Mau crab, hailed as the best sea crab in Asia.
Northern cuisine, specifically in preserving traditional eating habits, stands out. Time-honored dishes always need to be prepared in the exact ancient manner, preserving the original taste, such as the preparation of pho. Pho broth is always simmered from beef bones, creating sweetness from a type of worm, and served with just chili sauce and a few pieces of lime. There are even traditional pho restaurants in Hanoi that adamantly sell pho in the oldest manner: pho is served only with vinegar sauce instead of lime, unlike many other pho stalls. Customers who prefer squeezing lime into their pho must bring their own, as the restaurant does not provide it.
Herbs and spices are also indispensable in Northern cooking: chicken must have lime leaves, dog meat must have star fruit leaves, pig's heart must have mint,... Each herb is closely associated with a dish to the extent that people have likened them in a folk saying: 'The chicken cackles for lime leaves/The pig snorts to buy me star fruit leaves/Mother, please go to the market buy me a dong of shallots.'
Meanwhile, Southern cuisine is renowned for its flexible and flavorful culinary transformations. In Saigon, you can find specialties from all three regions, but they are almost always adapted endearingly to suit the taste buds of Saigonese. Northern-style pho in the South still uses beef bone broth but with stronger spices, resulting in a richer and sweeter taste. Saigonese prefer their pho with bean sprouts, chili sauce, or fresh chili. Without strict adherence to the original or alterations, Saigonese are easy-going; as long as it tastes good, it's enough.
Thus, Saigonese cuisine boasts dishes like 'clay-baked chicken' and 'grilled snakehead fish' known for their incredibly rustic preparation methods. There's no need for elaborate seasoning; these dishes can be cooked up right by the field, enjoyed amidst the breezy ambiance of the countryside.
The difference lies therein, so enjoying Northern cuisine must be gentle and serene, while Southern cuisine is all about relaxation, indulgence, simplicity, and straightforwardness. Northern Vietnam offers dishes like beef pho, thin noodle soup, grilled pork with vermicelli, snail noodle soup, Vong green rice,... Southern Vietnam serves dishes like grilled snakehead fish, Nam Vang noodles, shrimp and pork salad rolls, honey-glazed grilled chicken, mudfish hotpot,... each region with its own charm, each with its own personality, contributing to the rich and enticing tapestry of Vietnamese cuisine.
To truly taste and appreciate the distinct differences in Northern and Southern cuisine, PasGo introduces you to Quan An Ngon, preserving the traditional beauty of Northern dishes, and Món Ngon Sài Thành with authentic Southern delicacies amidst the Northern land. Taste each dish, experience the differences, as if tasting the essence of people, and the deeply embedded cultural values within.
For more detailed information about Quan An Ngon and Mon Ngon Sai Thanh, please visit the following links:
>> Quan An Ngon Restaurant Chain: https://pasgo.vn/chuoi-nha-hang/quan-an-ngon-31
>> Mon Ngon Sai Thanh Restaurant Chain: https://pasgo.vn/nha-hang/mon-ngon-sai-thanh-da-tuong-1425
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