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Pad Thai, now recognized globally as Thailand's signature dish, didn't become part of the nation's culinary identity until the 1930s. It was during this time that Thai Prime Minister Plaek Phibunsongkhram—or Phibun—took office. As part of his efforts to shape national identity, Phibun's government introduced a standardized recipe for pad thai to street vendors, leading to its widespread popularity. Today, the dish can be found not only in Thailand but around the world. While Phibun’s campaign was a success, there was a catch: Pad Thai, which became Thailand’s de facto national dish, might not have been truly Thai. It is, in fact, a fusion of influences, with a layer of political agenda woven into its creation.
The Political Roots of Pad Thai
Though pad thai became famous in the 1930s, the stir-fried noodles it’s based on have a much longer history. Chinese people first developed noodles over 4,000 years ago, and they soon adopted the technique of stir-frying in woks. By the 18th century, Chinese traders brought this style of stir-fried noodles to the region that is now Thailand. These early noodle dishes likely laid the groundwork for the pad thai we know today—stir-fried rice noodles served with vegetables, bean sprouts, various proteins like peanuts, and an array of flavorful seasonings.
After helping dismantle the absolute monarchy in Thailand during the early 1930s, Phibun rose to power in the following decade. The nation, weakened and vulnerable to colonization, was in desperate need of unity. Phibun made it his goal to foster a singular national identity, which included renaming the country from Siam to Thailand, adopting a new national anthem, and promoting a dish that would symbolize this newfound unity: pad thai.
To clarify, pad thai wasn’t the product of a government laboratory. According to Phibun’s son, as recounted in *Gastronomica: The Journal for Food Studies*, the dish was likely first prepared at home, possibly created by a family cook or an aunt. While its exact origins are unclear, it may have been inspired by an old Chinese recipe. Regardless of its precise beginnings, it was an ideal choice for Phibun’s national agenda.
Phibun introduced 12 Cultural Mandates aimed at modernizing and unifying the country. These mandates not only fostered patriotism but also encouraged Western-style behaviors. For instance, Mandate 10 banned many traditional Thai garments, while Mandate 5 urged citizens to wear clothes made exclusively from Thai materials. Similarly, Mandate 5 encouraged the consumption of food made only from Thai-grown ingredients.
Pad thai embodies the paradox at the heart of these mandates: while Phibun selected it to symbolize Thailand, the dish is made from ingredients sourced from around the world. Mung beans originated in India, peanuts were first cultivated in South America, tamarind hails from tropical Africa, and chili peppers come from South and Central America. Fish sauce, with its own complex international origins, is another key ingredient in pad thai.
The fact that pad thai incorporates international ingredients doesn’t make it any less Thai, but by Phibun’s own nationalistic criteria, it may have fallen short. Even in the 1900s, fried noodles were still closely linked to Chinese cuisine in Thailand. Some historians suggest that pad thai was initially created by Chinese cooks. Its original name—*kway teow pad thai*—translates to “Thai-style stir-fried noodles” in Chinese, which seems like a curious name for a dish supposedly created by a Thai chef.
Pad Thai as a Symbol of National Pride
By the early 1940s, Prime Minister Phibun had more practical reasons for promoting pad thai. The country was facing economic hardship, exacerbated by the onset of World War II and catastrophic flooding. This led to a shortage of rice, a staple of Thai cuisine. Since one bowl of rice could produce two bowls of rice noodles, Phibun advocated for noodles as a substitute starch to help conserve the nation’s rice supply.
With the slogan “noodle is your lunch,” Phibun launched a campaign that presented eating pad thai daily as an act of patriotism. He hoped to encourage a diet that was affordable, filling, and nutritious. This may explain why pad thai’s recipe is packed with various forms of protein compared to other regional noodle dishes. In addition to a primary protein like chicken, shrimp, or tofu, pad thai typically includes stir-fried eggs, bean sprouts, and chopped peanuts, making it a well-rounded meal.
Thai cuisine is known for its mastery of blending multiple flavors in one dish, and pad thai is no exception. Lime and tamarind contribute both acidity and sweetness, while fish sauce—or other seafood ingredients like dried shrimp—provide saltiness and the savory depth of umami. Crushed dried chilies, an essential component in Thai cooking, add a fiery kick to the dish.
This intricate balance of flavors may help explain why pad thai has become so popular internationally. In under a century, it has grown to be one of Thailand’s most iconic culinary exports. However, its rapid global success wasn’t entirely a natural occurrence. Just like its rise within Thailand, the dish’s popularity abroad was carefully cultivated by the Thai government.
Pad Thai's Global Journey
In 2001, Thailand launched a campaign aimed at establishing thousands of Thai restaurants worldwide. The country employed various strategies to achieve this, such as training chefs domestically and sending them abroad, as well as providing loans to Thai immigrants who wanted to open restaurants in other nations.
For foreign investors interested in opening a Thai restaurant, the Thai government offered a selection of pre-designed restaurant models. Each model came with a set menu and decor suited for different price ranges. Even the names were pre-selected: Elephant Jump for the budget option, Cool Basil for mid-range, and Golden Leaf for high-end establishments.
Thailand’s campaign appears to have been a success. Between 2001 and 2018, the number of Thai restaurants outside of Thailand nearly tripled. But what was the true benefit to the country?
By promoting Thai restaurants worldwide, Thailand sought to enhance its global image. People who develop a love for Thai cuisine at home are more likely to visit Thailand as tourists, boosting the local economy. The campaign also served as a subtle way for Thailand to strengthen its international relations, a strategy known as gastrodiplomacy. In this case, Thailand’s efforts were about more than just sharing its delectable food with the world—it was about leveraging food for diplomatic advantage.
Though it may have its origins in government-driven initiatives, pad thai often finds itself labeled as less than authentic—an elusive term that’s always shifting in a dynamic world. However, many in Thailand still vouch for the dish and its rightful place in Thai cuisine. While it's no longer considered the national dish, it's widely enjoyed across the country. Though not a common homemade meal, pad thai remains a staple street food, particularly in cities like Bangkok, where it’s often enjoyed as a late-night snack rather than the filling meal it was originally designed to be.
It’s clear that a dish as flavorful as pad thai would endure, even as its context evolves. Despite the efforts to elevate its status over the years, the combination of sweet and salty noodles has never struggled to win over palates.
This story has been adapted from an episode of Food History on YouTube.
