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The 'little black dress,' a timeless essential in every woman’s wardrobe, is not as ageless as many assume. While it is a classic that endures—neither a passing trend nor ever out of fashion—its history is surprisingly brief, originating just over a century ago in the early 1900s. Although French designer Coco Chanel is often credited with popularizing the design, determining who first created the little black dress is more complicated than it appears.
As difficult as it is to believe today—when black clothing is seen as the go-to, flattering option, and the latest fashion is often referred to as “the new black”—dark garments were not the fashionable choice for women in society’s upper echelons in the past. In the 1800s, black clothing was primarily associated with mourning attire; centuries before that, it was a symbol of luxury because only the wealthy could afford the expensive black dye for their clothing. Over time, perceptions shifted as fashion icons realized that black not only concealed stains and spills but also complemented expensive accessories. By the time Coco Chanel emerged in the 1920s, black dresses had already become a popular and widely accepted choice.
The particular little black dress most closely linked with Chanel first appeared in a 1926 issue of Vogue, a simple calf-length design paired with a modest string of pearls, standing out from the intricate flapper styles that dominated the era. The magazine dubbed it 'Chanel’s Ford,' drawing a parallel to Henry Ford’s Model T, the prototype for future cars, and predicted that it would become 'a sort of uniform for all women of taste.' A 1930 issue of Vogue showcased another Chanel creation—a sheer black lace dress with a matching capelet—further reinforcing the public perception that Coco Chanel was the originator of the little black dress. However, designers like Edward Molyneux were also promoting similar styles, albeit without Vogue’s endorsement.
One of the most iconic little black dresses in history is from the 1960s: Audrey Hepburn famously donned a little black Givenchy dress as Holly Golightly in the opening scene of Breakfast at Tiffany’s, a moment that inspired countless Halloween costumes. This level of visibility likely helped solidify the little black dress as a cultural symbol, so much so that it’s now become an acronym: LBD, which has been officially recognized in the Oxford Dictionary of English since 2010.
