During the holy month of Ramadan in Mumbai, a historic street near Minara Masjid transforms into a bustling food market at sunset. Known as 'khau galli' or 'eat street,' this vibrant festival offers barbecue and sweets to Muslims breaking their fast. The event is open to everyone, with vendors from across the city joining in. Local photographer Hashim Badani, who’s been documenting this food-filled celebration for years, captured the experience for Dinogo.
As the monsoon rains sweep through Mumbai, the humidity is intense when the skies clear. “I was drenched either way,” says photographer Badani, recalling the shoot. The street teems with people, a mix of street food lovers and those observing Ramadan. The atmosphere is packed, akin to rush hour on a crowded train. “There’s no standing still at khau galli,” Badani adds. “You eat rich foods, but sweat it off before you leave the street.”
The street offers a variety of meats like chicken tikka and goat brain masala, but it’s the sweets that draw the biggest crowds. These desserts, often exclusive to the Ramadan season, are a highlight of the festival. At khau galli, attendees indulge in phirni, a creamy rice pudding served in clay pots, malpua, deep-fried pancakes soaked in syrup, and mawa jalebi, a sugary, deep-fried dough swirl.
While photographing the event, Badani found the vendors eager to accommodate his camera. They offered free sweets and paused just enough to keep the long lines moving. Many of these street vendors make more money during the nightly festival than they do over the next six months, according to Badani.
The market remains open all night, only closing when the sun rises, after street vendors have served late-night revelers, workers finishing their shifts, and Muslims enjoying a meal before dawn prayers. During Ramadan, this vibrant corner of the city, usually less frequented, becomes a hub for people from all walks of life. Badani enjoys seeing how food brings the diverse people of Mumbai together.
Hashim Badani is a photographer based in Mumbai.
